Ascent via the North Edge from the Molodaya Gvardiya Glacier — cat. diff. 2B (4394 m) (fig. 10)

In the southern part of the Malo-Almatinsky spur, which is the watershed of the Bolshaya Almatinka and Levy Talgar rivers, rises the majestic ice-snow pyramid of the Molodaya Gvardiya peak. Fig. 10 The most convenient approach paths to the route are via the Ozerny valley to the Gryazny Glacier. The initial bivouac is organized on the moraine of the glacier. Moving along the right side of the glacier and overcoming a series of crevasses, one exits onto a relatively gentle section at the foot of the northern slope. Continue the ascent up the ice slope with a steepness of up to 40° to the first sentinel on the northern edge of the peak massif. Cats are required on this section. Having overcome the bergschrund and a small icefall, approach the heavily destroyed rocks. Then proceed along the edge; the rocks are of medium difficulty, and exit onto the main North Edge, which approaches the first sentinel. There are cornices on the eastern side of the ridge (be cautious!). The sentinel, up to 20 m high, is bypassed on the right via cut steps in an ice gully, with a steepness of up to 50° and a length of 20–25 m. After ascending onto a very sharp ridge, within 15 minutes one can approach the second sentinel, which is up to 50 m high. After a terrace, there is an exit onto a small steep scree leading to rocks of medium difficulty and onto a steep snowfield ending in a small cornice. To exit onto the ridge via the cornice, a diagonal cutting is necessary.

Route Description

From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier, exit onto the Tuyuk-Su glacier and, moving along the left lateral moraine, cross the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier that flows into it. Then follow the talus along the rocky ridge connecting the peaks of Lokomotiv and Kosmodemyanskaya. The ascent to the Lokomotiv peak is described above (category 2A difficulty via the North ridge). Bypassing a series of gendarmes on the right via moderately difficult and easy rocks, descend to the saddle between the peaks of Pogrebetskogo and Lokomotiv. Ascend to the peak of Pogrebetskogo via snowy, not very steep slopes, and occasionally talus. Then move along the eastern ridge to the Tuyuk-Su pass. From there, descend to the glacier to the foot of the ridge of the Tuyuk-Su peak, and, bypassing it on the left, head to the initial bivouac. The traverse takes 10–12 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants — not limited.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00 AM.

Lokomotivets (4182 m)

Ascent from the Pereval Druzhby – Cat. II

The Lokomotivets peak is located southeast of the Pereval Druzhby in the ridge that divides the lateral valleys of the Almaty and Kokolbulak rivers in the Chon-Kemin river basin, south of the watershed ridge. The path from the initial bivouac to the Pereval Druzhby is described in the route to the Promezhutochnaya peak. From the pass, go in a southeast direction along the steep ridge, which is snowy in the initial part and then rocky. The ridge leads to the summit. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 7–8 hours. The first ascent to the summit was made in 1949 by a group of climbers from the Tuyuksu camp of the Lokomotiv sports society from the southern side under the leadership of S. Trukhanov. The first ascent via the described route was made in May 1954 by Almaty climbers consisting of:

• A. Andreev
• E. Denisenko
• V. Kaigorodova
• Ya. Markushin
• A. Musaev

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Climbing area — Tian Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge 3. Peak — traverse with ascent via the left glacial couloir of the Western wall of Glavny Talgara — South Talgar

• height — 4973 m
• route type — ice-snow

4. Estimated difficulty category — 4B
5. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 1000 m
• length of sections 4–5 difficulty category — 580 m
• average steepness of the route — 50°

Report on the ascent of Pik Yuzhny Talgar via the Southwest Wall, 5A category of difficulty, by the team of the Central Sports Club of the Army of Kazakhstan

Team coach: Uryubko D.V. Team captain: Dedeshko B.E.

Almaty, 2010

Climbing Passport

1. Zailiyskiy Alatau, Sredniy Talgar
2. Pik Yuzhny Talgar — 4900 m
3. Ice couloir through the center of the Southwest Wall
4. Category of difficulty — 5A
5. Route type — ice

Passport

I. Technical Class 2. Trans-Ili Alatau, Middle Talgar gorge 3. Talgar, via the Western wall from the Kroshka glacier 4. 5 km/h 5. Elevation difference: 180 m, length — 1400 m Length of 5 km/h sections. 6. Pitons driven rock belay anchors ice 66⁄8 0⁄0 85⁄8 3⁄0 7. Team's walking hours: 24 h; days 2.

1. Climbing category: combined.
2. Climbing area: N. Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Talgar base camp.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: Yuzhny Talgar, 5020 m, SW wall, center.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 900 m, length of 5th category difficulty sections 200 m, average steepness 45°.
6. Pitons driven: for belay, for creating Intermediate Technical Support (I.T.O.). | rock | 53 | IV | |------------|----|----| | ice | – | – | | bolt | – | – |

Muztau (4556 m)

Ascent from the Toguзак Glacier along the northern edge, route 2А category of complexity (fig. 6). The Muztau peak is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau. To the east of it, separated by a vast firn plateau, rises the peak Sovetsky Kazakhstan, and to the south-west, also behind a large firn plateau, is the peak 10 let Kazakhskoy SSR. From the initial bivouac on the terminal moraine of the Toguзак Glacier - exit to its left branch. The tongue of the glacier and the glacier itself are not steep. Above the place where the right and left branches of the glacier merge, there are transverse crevices. Here, rope up and go to the foot of the northern edge of Muztau. Further ascent along this edge. From the bivouac - 1.5-2 hours of walking. The further path is visible from

Fig. 6

Muryntau (4539 m)

1. Ascent from the Togu­zak glacier via the gully of the north-western ridge.
2. Traverse Muryntau — Togu­zak from the Togu­zak glacier. Ascent from the Togu­zak glacier via the gully of the north-western ridge, route category 2. (fig. 10). The summit of Muryntau is located in the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge in the upper reaches of the right branch of the Togu­zak glacier. To the north-west of it:

• Togu­zak pass
• Togu­zak peak