Tur (4350 m)
Traverse from southwest to east — category 2B (Fig. 2)
From the initial bivouac located near the terminal moraine of the Levyy Kaskelen glacier, head north towards the summit, which is clearly visible. Initially, it's convenient to follow the stream flowing from the glacier. After ascending the first moraine step, reach a small moraine lake and from there, traverse the fine and medium-sized, densely packed talus, interspersed with snowfields, to the depression in the western ridge of Tur peak.
Fig. 2. After ascending the second moraine step, move to its lateral ridges, keeping close to the ridge leading from Tur peak. Continue moving along the moraine and then onto the glacier. After 700–800 m, the foot of the Burkut-tas pass (3900 m) is reached.
The ascent to the pass via a steep (up to 50°) snowfield, spanning 300–500 m, leads under a cornice. Carefully cutting through it, exit onto the pass saddle. The journey from the bivouac to the pass takes 3–4 hours.
From the pass, ascend to the summit via the southwest ridge. Initially, the rocks are of moderate difficulty (belaying is mandatory), with a significant drop on the right side.
After 60–70 m of progress, the path is blocked by an 80-meter gendarme, which is overcome head-on. Characteristics of the passage:
- The number of holds is limited
- Belaying is via pitons (caution!)
- The rocks are heavily deteriorated
Descend from the gendarme using a 40 m rope.
After the first gendarme, traverse a section of the deteriorated ridge with alternating belays. The second gendarme, up to 70 m high, is also tackled head-on. Belaying is via 2–3 pitons (caution!). The rocks are heavily deteriorated.
Descend along the sharp ridge (250–300 m) with careful belaying. Further on, the rocky ridge transitions into a snowy one with cornices. Stay on the right side. After 400 m, reach the summit. There's a cairn with a note 20 m below the summit. Descent is via the ascent route.
The ascent takes 9–10 hours.
When making the traverse from the summit:
- Head south across rocks of moderate difficulty to the saddle between two gendarmes.
- From the saddle, turn southwest.
- Descend via a couloir onto the Levyy Kaskelen glacier.
The traverse takes 8–9 hours.
The first ascent was made in 1938 by a group from the Moscow House of Scientists, led by Professor Nemytsky. The first traverse was accomplished by a group from the "Kok Bastau" alpine camp, consisting of:
- B. Belokon,
- L. Leytes,
- A. Mal'kov,
- E. Tsingaev under the leadership of A. Kolegov.
Recommendations for Climbers
- The number of participants should not exceed 6.
- Initial bivouac is near the tongue of the Levyy Kaskelen glacier.
- Departure from the bivouac is at 5:00.
- Equipment for a group of 4: a) main rope — 2×40 m; b) expendable cordelette — 5–6 m; c) rock pitons — 5; d) carabiners — 4; e) hammers — 2.