Route Description.
The approach path is the same as to the summit of Pogrebetsky. Moving along the middle of the Tuyuksu glacier and rounding the northwest ridge of the eponymous peak, turn left towards the foot of a large couloir located at the junction of the northwest ridge of Tuyuksu peak and the main ridge, running from Tuyuksu pass to the summit.
The couloir is quite long, its lateral branches are framed by rocks, and it is hazardous due to rockfall. It is recommended to pass through it early in the morning, sticking to the left side and using rock outcrops for cover. Upon reaching the ridge, turn left and ascend to the summit via easy, heavily broken rocks.
Descent:
- It is safer via Tuyuksu pass.
Time required for the ascent: 7–8 hours.
Recommendations:
- Number of participants: 8–10 people.
- Initial bivouac on the moraine of Molodezhny glacier.
- Departure from bivouac at 4:00 AM.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people:
- main rope — 2×40 m
- ice screws — 2 pcs.
- hammers —
1
(1)
1B category of difficulty via the dome with
C-3
Author: Zhunusov B. Source: Book "Alpinistskie marshruty. Zailiyskiy Alatau".
Part 1
From Mountain.kz website