Fig. 6.

Fig. 17

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今

Climbing Report

Ascent to the summit of Munku-Sardyk (3491 m) via the ice wall of the Eastern ridge (first ascent) Mountain Range: Eastern Sayan Month and Year of Ascent: May 2012

Irkutsk — 2013. Climbing Passport

Region — Eastern Sayans, Bolshoy Sayan, Muguvek gorge. Peak — Munku-Sardyk 3491 m. Route — ice wall of the Eastern ridge, proposed category 2B, First Ascent Route characteristics — snow-ice. Route description — elevation gain 800 m, route length approximately 1550 m. Average slope 45°. Equipment left on the route — 0 pitons. Pitons used on the route: 36, including (" закладок") — 0, ice screws — 36, bolt pitons — 0, including aid climbing — 0.

Fig. 13 After this section, there are three small gendarmes that can be bypassed on the left via rocks. Protection through rock outcrops. If there is snow, the gendarmes are traversed via ledges. Piton protection. From the last gendarme, descend while keeping to the left side. Further, there is a snowy saddle with cornices on the left. Be cautious! From the saddle to the summit of Kishkinema, there are two snowy ascents, each about fifteen meters. Beyond them lies the exit to the summit rocks. Move rightward along the ledges to the slab. Piton protection. From the saddle to the summit takes 1 hour of walking. Here is the 2nd cairn. From the summit, descend with alternating protection, keeping to the left side, onto the snowy saddle between the summit of Kiskineta and the ridge extending south to the summit of Frunze. Here, to the right on the rocks, at the beginning of the ascent up the steep snowy slope, is the 3rd cairn. The ascent to the summit of Suleiman Stalsky follows a slope of about 90–100 meters. In the lower part, the slope is snowy with up to 50° steepness, in the middle part, it's icy. Steps need to be cut. Piton protection. In the uppermost part, the slope is snowy, and towards the end of the season, there may be icy conditions, with steepness reaching up to 60°. From here, move rightward along the sharp ridge. About fifteen meters before the ridge, there is a rocky outcrop. Descend 3–4 meters to it, and then move east with a slight gain in elevation onto the snowy ridge leading to the summit of Suleiman Stalsky.

Tuyuksu 1B cat. complexity with Tuyuksu col

Route description. Tuyuksu peak is located in the Malo-Almatinsky spur to the southwest of the eponymous 4100 m pass. A snow-ice ridge with intricate snow cornices connects it to the Igly Tuyuksu massif. To the northwest, a rocky ridge with sharp drops in height departs. Significant glaciation is observed on:

• northern slopes,
• western slopes. The southern slopes are heavily destroyed. The eastern slopes, descending towards the Left Talgar gorge, are covered with talus and areas of heavily destroyed rocks. The approach to Tuyuksu pass is described in the route to Pogorelsky peak. From the pass, the ascent begins along a wide northeastern ridge. On the eastern side, it is overhung by powerful cornices (be careful!). After 70 m, the ridge lowers slightly, becomes snowy, with sections of easy rocks, and after 200 m, the key point of the route is reached — a 5-meter ice wall. Here, depending on the state of the ridge, it is necessary to:
• Hang a rope for descent and ascent
• Use an ice axe or ice axe piton

Photo #5. Section R2–R3. Shooting point Ф5. Photo #7. Section R3–R4. Shooting point Ф7. Photo #6. Section R3–R4. Shooting point Ф6. Photo #8. Beginning of section R4–R5. Shooting point Ф8. Photo #9. Upper part of section R4–R5. Shooting point Ф9. Photo #10. On section R4–R5. Shooting point Ф10. Photo #11. Section R5–R6. Shooting point Ф11. Photo #12. Beginning of section R6–R7. Shooting point Ф12.

120 m 70–80° I

V. Adai — Hoh via Eastern Wall, cat. 4A

• R0–R3 120 m 35° 2+
• R3 40 m 40° 3
• R4 60 m 50° 4
• R5–R7 140 m 50° 3+
• R7 70 m 55° 4+
• R8–R10 120 m 45° 3+
• R10 180 m 35°–40° 3+