Tuyuksu 1B cat. complexity with Tuyuksu col
Route description. Tuyuksu peak is located in the Malo-Almatinsky spur to the southwest of the eponymous 4100 m pass. A snow-ice ridge with intricate snow cornices connects it to the Igly Tuyuksu massif. To the northwest, a rocky ridge with sharp drops in height departs.
Significant glaciation is observed on:
- northern slopes,
- western slopes.
The southern slopes are heavily destroyed. The eastern slopes, descending towards the Left Talgar gorge, are covered with talus and areas of heavily destroyed rocks.
The approach to Tuyuksu pass is described in the route to Pogorelsky peak. From the pass, the ascent begins along a wide northeastern ridge. On the eastern side, it is overhung by powerful cornices (be careful!).
After 70 m, the ridge lowers slightly, becomes snowy, with sections of easy rocks, and after 200 m, the key point of the route is reached — a 5-meter ice wall. Here, depending on the state of the ridge, it is necessary to:
- Hang a rope for descent and ascent
- Use an ice axe or ice axe piton
50 m from the wall, there is an approach to easy rocks and along them to the summit from the southern side. It rises 120 m above the ridge and is a jumble of rocky boulders. Time for ascent is 8-9 hours, including 3.5-4 hours for descent.
The first to pioneer the route to Tuyuksu were instructors from the mountain training school in September 1943, consisting of:
- K. Strekalov,
- N. Kriventsov,
- A. Tomberg under the guidance of Yu. Menzhulin.
Recommendations:
- Number of participants — no more than 6 people.
- Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier.
- Departure from bivouac at 6:00 AM.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people:
- main rope — 2 × 40 m
- ice pitons — 2 pcs.
- hammers — 1 pc.
Author: Zhunusov B. Source: Book "Alpinist routes. Trans-Ili Alatau". Part 1.