Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Tengri Tag ridge, South Inylchek glacier, number according to the 1999 classification table —.
2. Peak name: Khan Tengri (6995 m), route name: via NW edge from Chapayev peak shoulder (I. Grebenshchikov).
3. Complexity category: 5A category.
4. Route type — combined
5. Route elevation gain: 2800 m (by altimeter); route length — 8260 m; sections of 5th category — 1500 m; 6th category —.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — altitude-technical
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan
3. Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) — via the western couloir, first ascent
4. Estimated complexity category — 5B
5. Height difference — 2800 m of which:

• wall — 1200 m
• Length — about 6000 m, including rock part — about 1800 m
• Length of sections with 5–6 complexity category — 125 m

Consider the route via 40–3 saddle as an option of cat. 5B (record No. 10 p. 7 of the classification) USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS 1982 Category 5 TECHNICAL-ALTITUDE ASCENTS group N/N not to be included in the table Order No. 525 dated 22.02.83 p. 26. 25.01.83

Report

on the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) via the west face

Ascent Passport

1. Class of high-altitude technical ascents.
2. Region 7.9, Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge.
3. Khan-Tengri peak via the W ridge from Semenovsky glacier (variant of M. Pogrebetsky's route-31 via the SW slope).
4. 5A category of route complexity, combined.
5. Height difference 1400 m, average steepness of the ridge 40°, route length 3000 m. Sections of 1st category of difficulty – 1100 m, 2nd category – 350 m, 3rd category – 1300 m, 4th category – 200 m, 5th category – 50 m.
6. Used previously fixed ropes – 700 m, total 1200 m of ropes on the route from 6100 m to 6850 m.
7. Climbing hours — 9, days — 2.
8. Overnight stay in a snow cave under the col between Chapayev peak and Khan-Tengri peak, 5850 m.
9. Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich — CMS, Shanavazov Shanavaz Eldarovich — CMS

Passport

1. Class — high-altitude.
2. Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge.
3. Peak Khan Tengri, 7010 m, from S. Inylchek Glacier along the Western ridge via the Northern summit of Peak Chapayev (along the NE edge of Peak Chapayev's shoulder).
4. Complexity category — 5B.
5. Height difference — 2500 m, length — 9000 m, length of sections with 5 and 6 complexity categories — 400 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 30°.
6. 7 rock anchors hammered in, previously hammered anchors used.
7. Team's travel hours — 15.5 hours and days — 3.
8. Overnights: 1st — 5600 m — comfortable in a tent, 2nd — 5800 m — in a snow cave, all lying down.
9. Leader: Bolotov Alexey Vasilyevich — Candidate Master of Sports.

Ascent Passport

1. Class of high-altitude ascents
2. Tian Shan, Tengri Tag ridge
3. Peak Khan Tengri via NE edge of p. Chapayeva's shoulder;
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Elevation gain — 2910 m. Distance 6160 m. Distance of sections with V difficulty category 960 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 40°.
6. Team's travel hours — 18, days — 3.

1. High-altitude technical class.
2. Central Tien-Shan (Tengri-Tag).
3. Peak 6250 m via the right part of the N wall and W ridge.
4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference 2250 m, length — 2900 m. Length of sections with 5 category of difficulty — 1710 m, 6 category of difficulty — 80 m. Average slope — 50°
6. Pitons hammered: Rock 42, chocks 25, ice screws 102
7. Team's working hours: 30 hours, days — 5

Championship of the Kazakh SSR

High-altitude class

II. Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via the north-eastern ridge of the shoulder of Peak Chapayev from the North Inylchek Glacier (first ascent)

Team 12 SCA SAVO Coach: Yuriy Mikhaylovich Moiseev Team captain: Valeriy Nikolayevich Khrshchatyy

1. 12 Sports Club of the Army, Almaty
2. Almaty, Kurmangazy St., 15, apt. 8, Khrshchatyy V. N., ph. 61-27-25 Participants: V. Khrshchatyy, Z. Aubekerov, G. Mikhaylov, A. Vasil'yev, Ye. Sedel'nikov (SCA-12) August 17-20, 1988

Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, l. North Inychek 7, 9, 13
2. Khan-Tengri 6995 m NE ridge of Chapayev peak shoulder Solomatov route. Category B
3. 5A category of difficulty
4. The nature of the route is combined
5. Height difference 2695 m Route length 5110 m

Ascent Passport

1. Class of high-altitude ascents;
2. Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge;
3. Khan-Tengri peak via the NE edge of Chapayev peak's shoulder;
4. Difficulty category – 5B;
5. Elevation gain – 2910 m; Distance – 6160 m; Distance of sections with V cat. diff. – 960 m; Average steepness of the main part of the route – 40°;
6. Team's travel hours – 18; days – 3;