Passport

1. Class — high-altitude.
2. Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge.
3. Peak Khan Tengri, 7010 m, from S. Inylchek Glacier along the Western ridge via the Northern summit of Peak Chapayev (along the NE edge of Peak Chapayev's shoulder).
4. Complexity category — 5B.
5. Height difference — 2500 m, length — 9000 m, length of sections with 5 and 6 complexity categories — 400 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 30°.
6. 7 rock anchors hammered in, previously hammered anchors used.
7. Team's travel hours — 15.5 hours and days — 3.
8. Overnights: 1st — 5600 m — comfortable in a tent, 2nd — 5800 m — in a snow cave, all lying down.
9. Leader: Bolotov Alexey Vasilyevich — Candidate Master of Sports. Team members: Yermachek Yuri Vladimirovich — Master of Sports.
10. Coach: Mikhailov Alexander Alexandrovich — Master of Sports, Honored Trainer of Russia.
11. Entry to the route — July 20, 1995. Summit — July 22 of the same year. Return — July 22 of the same year.
12. Organization: Sverdlovsk Regional Sports Committee, Yekaterinburg.

Route description by sections

R0–R1 Snow-ice slope. Hidden and open crevasses. R1–R2 Ice couloir. R2–R3 Snow ridge. R3–R4 Snow ridge. R4–R5 Heavily snow-covered wide rock ridge. Rocks not very steep but heavily destroyed, insurance needed in some areas, especially in the lower part (sections R6–R7, R8–R9). R5–R6 Snow plateau. R6–R7 Firn ridge. R7–R8 Snow slope. R8–R9 Belt of heavily destroyed rocks. R9–R10 Snow dome. R10–R11 Snow slope. R11–R12 Gentle snow ridge with large snow cornice. R12–R13 Rock ridge. R13–R14 Snow couloir. R14–R15 Rock wall. R15–R16 Ice-snow slope with rock outcrops.

Discussion of the ascent

Regarding the ascent of the team from Sverdlovsk Regional Sports Committee to Peak Khan Tengri along the NE edge of Peak Chapayev's shoulder.

Present: releasing coach Mikhailov A.A., head of the rescue team Malikov O.L., team members: Bolotov, Karmunov, Yermachek Yu.V., judge. Observers: Bugachevskiy I.V., Povolotskiy V.A.

Mikhailov: "The discussion is about the ascent to Peak Khan Tengri (7010 m) along the NE edge of Peak Chapayev's shoulder, 5B complexity category, carried out by the team from Sverdlovsk Regional Sports Committee as part of the Russian Championship in the high-altitude class".

Bolotov: "The tactical plan included the following schedule: 1st day — exit from the Base camp, ascent. 2nd day: exit to the ridge of the NE ridge of Peak Chapayev's shoulder, to the 6100 m summit and descent to the saddle, and 3rd day descent to the Base camp. The tactical plan included two additional overnights in case of bad weather in any of the camps. During the ascent, the tactical plan was fully executed without using reserve days. In fact, the team completed the ascent and descended to the Base camp in 3 days. We are satisfied with the tension within the rope team. Radio communication was stable. The route is safe and logical, corresponds to 5B complexity category".

Yermachek Yu.V.: "We believe we passed the route well and quickly, facilitated by our accumulated experience in high-altitude ascents and good physical preparation".

Mikhailov: "The team fully executed the tactical plan. The ascent was carried out with all safety measures observed and in a short time".

Korshunov B.S.: "The ascent was carried out in good style, in accordance with the Rules of mountaineering and the Regulations on the Russian Championship 1995. The tactical plan set before the ascent was fully executed. I believe that the report on the ascent can be accepted for judging in the Russian Championship".

Releasing coach — A. Mikhailov. With the team — B.S. Korshunov.

Ascending to Peak Khan Tengri from Northern Inylchek Glacier

1. K. Kuzmin, 1964
2. O. Hudiyakov, 1970
3. M. Gorbenko, 1987
4. S. Studenin, 1974
5. E. Myslovskiy, 1974
6. M. Zakharov, 1988
7. J. Moiseev, 1988
8. I. Grebenschikov, 1975