Passport

1. High-altitude technical climb
2. Tian Shan, Tengri Tagh ridge
3. Khan Tengri peak 7010 m, from the north, via Chapayev peak shoulder
4. Category of difficulty 5B
5. Height difference 2710 m, length – 3500 m
6. Average steepness – 55°
7. Pitons hammered in: rock – 25, ice – 15
8. Climbing hours – 18 hours
9. Overnight stays – 2 in a tent

Passport:

1. Tian – Shan, Tengri–Tag ridge, l. Sev. Inylchek 7, 9, 13
2. Khan – Tengri 6995 m. NE rib of Chapaev shoulder M-t. Solomatova.B.
3. 5A cat. dif.
4. Route type is combined
5. Height difference 2695. Route length 5110 m. Length of V cat. dif. sections 310 m. avg. slope of NE rib of Chapaev shoulder 44°

Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. (7.9.13.)
2. Khan-Tengri peak, 7010 m, NE rib of Chapayev peak shoulder.
3. Route category — 5B.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Height difference — 2800 m, length — 9000 m, length of 5th and 6th cat. diff. sections — 400 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 30°.
6. 7 rock anchors hammered in, previously hammered anchors used.
7. Team's walking hours — 21:00 hrs and days — 3.
8. Overnights: 1st — 5600 m — comfortable in a tent, 2nd — 5800 m — in a snow cave, all reclining.
9. Team leader: Alexey Vasilyevich Bolotov — MS

on Khan-Tengri via NE edge of Chapayev Peak shoulder, Tian Shan, September 7, 2013

Passport

1. High-altitude class.
2. Tian Shan, North Inylchek glacier.
3. Khan-Tengri peak, via NE edge of Chapayev Peak shoulder.
4. 5B category of difficulty, Grebenshchikova memorial route.
5. Height difference: 2950 m, length 5110 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 310 m. Average steepness of NE edge of Chapayev Peak shoulder — 44°, average steepness of the 3rd ridge of Khan-Tengri Peak — 43°.
6. Number of pitons used: rock — 30+10*; snow — 8*; ice — 1. Left on the route: rock — 10*; snow — 8*.
7. Team's total climbing hours: 20 h and days — 4.

Climbing Report for Khan-Tengri Peak, 6995 m

via the NE ridge of Chapayev Peak's shoulder, B. Solomatov's route, 5A category CSKA team named after Demchenko: Bryk R.A. — team leader, Volkov A.E., Dikovsky K.

Route Passport

1. Category — high-altitude and technical
2. TIAN-SHAN, 7.9. Tengri-Tag ridge
3. Khan-Tengri peak, 6995 m, NE ridge of Chapayev Peak's shoulder, (B. Solomatov's route, 1974)
4. 5A category of difficulty
5. Route type — combined

World Mountaineering Championship

High Altitude Class

National team of the Republic of Kazakhstan

Peak Khan-Tengri, 7010 m

via NE edge of Chapayev Peak's shoulder (classic route), Solomatov route 5A 2019

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge: Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge
2. Name of peak, route name: Peak Khan-Tengri, 6995 m, NE edge of Chapayev Peak's shoulder (B. Solomatov route, 1974)
3. Complexity category: 5A

Climbing Report for the USSR Alpine Climbing Championship

1. Climbing category — High-altitude.
2. Climbing area — North Inylchek Glacier, Central Tien Shan.
3. Climbing route — North slope of Khan-Tengri 6995 m, Kuzmin's route, 6B category of difficulty.
4. Climbing characteristics:
   • Elevation gain — 3000 m
   • Average slope approximately 50°
   • Length of most challenging sections — 1300 m
5. Pitons used:
   • Rock pitons — 82

Passport

1. Altitude class
2. Tian-Shan, North Inylchek Glacier
3. Peak Khan-Tengri, via North Ridge
4. 55 km
5. Elevation gain — 2995 m, distance — 5560 m. Length of sections 5 km – 660 m. Average steepness of the route — 33°. Excluding the snow plateau (5900–6000 m) and the summit dome (6920–6995 m) — 50°.
6. Pitons hammered: | rock | nuts | ice screws | | :--: | :---: | :------: |

Ascent Log

1. Tengri Tagh ridge.
2. Peak: Khan-Tengri, via the north ridge (Kuzmin).
3. Complexity category — 5B
4. Route type: combined.
5. Height difference — 2900 m. Distance — 5510 m. Length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 200 m. Average slope:

• main part of the route — 42°
• entire route — 32°

6. Pitons left on the route: total — 8 pcs.

Russian Alpinism Championship

High-altitude climbing category

Report on the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Khan Tengri, 6995 m via the North Ridge, 5B category of difficulty

team captain team coaches

• V. A. Arkhipov
• N. N. Zakharov
• V. V. Balezin
• G. Krasnoyarsk 2005