Consider the route via 40–3 saddle as an option of cat. 5B (record No. 10 p. 7 of the classification) USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS 1982 Category 5 TECHNICAL-ALTITUDE ASCENTS group N/N not to be included in the table Order No. 525 dated 22.02.83 p. 26. 25.01.83

Report

on the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) via the west face

Team of Odessa Regional Council of the "Avangard" VSS (first ascent)

Team leader: Kondakov E.I. Team coach: Sviridenko V.S. Odessa, 1982

"Odessa Regional Council of 'Avangard' VSS"

• 270045, Odessa, Ostrovidova st., 106
• phone 22-38-50 Team coach: Sviridenko Vadim Sergeevich
• 270070, Odessa, Kosmonavtov st., 44, apt. 47
• phone 66-14-67

Elevations on the route were determined using an altimeter and a topographic map.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical-altitude.
2. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag range, South Inylchek glacier.
3. Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) via the west face.
4. Proposed category — 5B, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1645 m, distance — 2570 m.

Distance of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 620 m. Average slope:

• snow — 36°

Average slope:

• rocks — 58°
• overall — 41°

6. Pitons used: rock — 85, ice — 7.
7. Climbing hours — 47 h 50 min.
8. Number of bivouacs — 5:

Sections:

• R1–R2 — on a snow-ice slope;
• R3–R5 — on rocks (R4 — sitting bivouac).

9. Names of the team leader and participants, sports qualification:

team leader — Kondakov Evgeny Ivanovich Master of Sports of the USSR; participants:

• Olik Anatoly Petrovich Candidate for Master of Sports;
• Mozeson Abram Izrailevich Candidate for Master of Sports;
• Somov Yuri Vladimirovich Candidate for Master of Sports;
• Kaver Igor Kirillovich Candidate for Master of Sports;
• Romanenko Anatoly Savvich Candidate for Master of Sports;
• Mamchich Vladimir Ivanovich 1st sports category;
• Shamrakov Boris Efimovich 1st sports category;
• Prikhodchenko Alexander Ivanovich 1st sports category.

10. Team coach: Sviridenko Vadim Sergeevich Master of Sports of the USSR.
11. Departure on August 6, 1982, from a bivouac at 5250 m. Return to the initial bivouac — August 13, 1982.

Route profile. Photo by p. Vazha Pshavela.

Brief explanation of the route characteristics table

August 6, 1982. Departure from the bivouac at 5250 m in the Semenovsky glacier cirque at 7:40. Deep snow, blowing snow, cold. The lead rope is Shamrakov — Mozeson — Mamchich. We gain about 100 m in elevation in two hours.

We put on crampons before the ice-firn ascent. Belays are mostly via ice axes and ice screws. After 300 m, we reach a cache at the beginning of the rock slope.

Rocks are covered with a thick layer of snow and a thin crust of ice underneath. Movement is varied; belays are through rock outcrops and ice axes. The lead rope is Kondakov — Olik — Prikhodchenko.

The rocks become steeper, and the snow layer thinner. Clearing snow, we find cracks and drive in rock pitons. Movement is via fixed ropes.

The last three ropes before reaching the ridge are very difficult:

• smooth, steep slabs;
• covered in ice;
• with very few cracks.

Olik leads without a backpack; movement is very slow. At 22:20, the last participant reaches the ridge and, crossing over it, joins the group organizing a bivouac on a snow slope three ropes from the ridge. Tents are set up in complete darkness around 23:00.

August 7, 1982. After the previous day's strenuous work, the ascent is late — departure at 11:30. Weather is sunny and frosty, strong wind. We move through deep, powdery snow. It's hard to walk; ropes frequently change positions. The last two and a half ropes before the rocks are very steep:

• we walk on the front points of our crampons;
• on hard snow; powdery snow is blown off the slope.

We set up fixed ropes. Kondakov leads. We stop for a bivouac under the wall on the ridge at 18:30. A very strong north wind literally tears at the tents. There's no suitable spot for a bivouac; we have to work for about 3 hours to clear a place for the tents.

August 8, 1982. Ahead is a complex rock wall. At 12:00, the rope pair Olik — Kaver starts processing the wall. The north wind is very strong; blowing snow. Rocks are very complex, местами разрушенные and lightly dusted with snow:

• limited number of cracks;
• most are shallow;
• it takes a long time to find suitable spots for belays.

At 17:30, the rope pair returns, having fixed 3 ropes.

TABLE of main route characteristics

Continuation of the table

August 9, 1982. Departure at 8:30. Still cold and strong wind. We move relatively quickly on fixed ropes using jumar ascenders. The group's speed is determined by the lead climber. The lead rope is Kondakov — Olik. Shamrakov — Mamchich act as a connecting link. Kaver follows last. By 12:00, the weather starts to deteriorate; visibility 40–60 m. Occasionally, clouds part, and we can determine the general direction of movement. Rocks become steeper; there are few cracks and holds. By 18:20, we reach a fairly distinct inclined ledge. By 21:30, with great difficulty, we manage to settle in for a sitting bivouac.

August 10, 1982. After a practically sleepless night, we wanted to depart early, but the intense cold forced us to retreat into the tents hanging from ropes. Visibility is poor; ropes are covered with a thick layer of frost. Departure at 11:30. Kondakov — Olik lead. Rocks begin to ease. After 2.5 ropes, we reach a marble ridge and another 1.5 ropes later — a snow slope under the summit tower. We attempt to bypass it to the right via a wide snow couloir. The powdery snow does not hold our weight, and we have to return. We stop for the night on a snow slope at 17:30. The bivouac is relatively comfortable.

August 11, 1982. Departure at 8:30. We start moving left to bypass the tower on a ledge. After one rope, we begin ascending разрушенные rocks of the summit tower. Visibility is 60–80 m; strong wind hinders movement. Weather worsens; after reaching the summit tower, visibility drops to 20 m. We approach the summit cairn at 13:00. Visibility continues to worsen. After receiving a radio consultation from the base camp on the descent, we attempt to locate it but are unsuccessful. At 15:00, we stop for the night on the flat summit dome.

August 12, 1982. Departure at 9:00. Fog, snow, strong wind. We descend northwest via a snow slope, then along the Pogrebetsky ridge to a saddle.

August 13, 1982. Weather is good, clear, but strong wind. Departure at 8:00. By 14:00, we descend to the initial bivouac in the Semenovsky glacier cirque. By 17:00, the weather deteriorates — fog, snowfall. We continue descending through the Semenovsky glacier icefall under the triangle of the southwest wall. Here, we meet a group of Leningraders. At 22:50, we stop for the night.