Ascent Log

1. Tengri Tagh ridge.
2. Peak: Khan-Tengri, via the north ridge (Kuzmin).
3. Complexity category — 5B
4. Route type: combined.
5. Height difference — 2900 m.

Distance — 5510 m. Length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 200 m. Average slope:

• main part of the route — 42°
• entire route — 32°

6. Pitons left on the route: total — 8 pcs.

Total ITO used — 2 pcs.

7. Team's travel hours: 4 days, 20 h.
8. Leader: Prilepa Evgeny Vladimirovich — Candidate for Master of Sports

Participants:

• Karpov Evgeny Anatolyevich — Master of Sports
• Ivanov Andrey Viktorovich — Candidate for Master of Sports
• Korolev Alexander Viktorovich — Candidate for Master of Sports
• Bunin Alexey Radevich — 1st sports category

9. Coach: Agafonov Yuri Alexandrovich.
10. Departure to the route: 10:00 August 19, 2003. Summit reached: 16:00 August 22, 2003. Return to Base Camp: 14:00 August 23, 2003.

Khan-Tengri peak from the North Inylchek glacier. August 15, 2003.

North ridge of Khan-Tengri peak from the approach (4800 m).

6100 m — view of the pre-summit bastion. Camp II.

5800 m — exit through the bastion to camp I. 6000 m

6500 m — view of camp I. 6000 m

6600 m — exit through the "red belt" to the pre-summit ridge.