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A description of the ascent route with technical details and an illustration.

R2 150­m 15°F
R2 300­m 40°F

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Ascent of Khan-Tengri (7010 m) via the classic route across the shoulder of Peak Chapayev, category 5B, in difficult weather conditions.

Passport

  1. High-altitude technical climb
  2. Tian Shan, Tengri Tagh ridge
  3. Khan Tengri peak 7010 m, from the north, via Chapayev peak shoulder
  4. Category of difficulty 5B
  5. Height difference 2710 m, length – 3500 m
  6. Average steepness – 55°
  7. Pitons hammered in: rock – 25, ice – 15
  8. Climbing hours – 18 hours
  9. Overnight stays – 2 in a tent
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Description of the first ascent of category 6B difficulty via the northwestern wall of Tamdykul peak (5539 m) in Trans-Alay range, made by a team of climbers in 1985.

PASSPORT

  1. High-altitude technical class
  2. Pamir-Alay, Archabashi gorge
  3. Tamdykul peak, 5539 m, via the left part of the NW wall
  4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
  5. Route elevation gain — 1490 m, wall elevation gain — 1180 m. Route length — 2180 m, wall length — 1580 m. Length of sections with 5–6B category of difficulty — 1270 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 71° (4150–5330 m), of which 6B category of difficulty — 79° (4900–5330 m).
  6. Number of pitons used: rock: 116, wedges: 98, channels: 10, chocks: 69, ice screws: 3.
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Description of the category 1B ascent route to Sibiryak 3400 m peak in the North-Chuya Range in Altai.

Ascent Record.

  1. Climbing area: ALTAI REPUBLIC, Severo-Chuyskiy ridge.
  2. Summit: SIBIRYAK 3400 m.
  3. Route: SIBIRYAK summit — East ridge.
  4. Difficulty category: 1B
  5. Route characteristics:
  • elevation gain 1000 m
  • length of 1B difficulty sections 300 m
  • average slope 30°
  1. Piton usage on the route: no
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Report on the ascent of the Chelyabinsk Region Alpine Federation team to the summit of McKinley via the West Rib in 2008.

Chelyabinsk Region Alpinism Federation High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category

Report

on the ascent to the summit of McKinley, 6196 m, via West Rib approximately 5B category of difficulty

Climbing Passport

  1. Competition class: Russian Championship, high-altitude technical class
  2. Region — Alaska, Alaska Range;
  3. Summit — McKinley 6196 m;
  4. Ascent route: via West Rib;
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Report on the ascent to the Plata peak (6050 m) in the Cordón del Plata massif, Argentine Andes, via the North-West slope, rated as a 2A category climb.

Ascent Passport

  1. Argentina, Andes, Cordón del Plata massif, classifier section 11.5
  2. Plata, 6050 m, via the northwest slope.
  3. Proposed category: 2A.
  4. Route type: combined.
  5. Route elevation gain: 1850 m. Route length: 5500 m. Length of sections with category V difficulty: 0, category VI difficulty: 0. Average slope: 37° for the main part of the route, 20° for the entire route.
  6. Pitons left on the route Total: 0, drilled pitons: 0.
  7. Team's travel time: 6.5 hours, 1 day.
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Description of the geographical area, approach to the route, and ascent to the summit of Agepsta Main via a new Category IIIB route.

Geographic Overview of the Area

The AGEPSTA massif is a standalone ridge with the dominant peak GLAVNAYA AGEPSTA (3261 m), dropping off to the north with walls up to 80 ° steep and a height difference of 1000 m. It is located on the border between Krasnodar Krai and the Georgian SSR. It is bounded to the west by the Aibga ridge and the Turii mountains, to the east by the Atskentsi ridge, to the north by the Mzymta River, and to the south by the Gegra River. From a geographical point of view, the AGEPSTA massif is part of the Southern Front Ridge. It stretches parallel to the Main Caucasian Ridge between the upper reaches of the Tikhaia and Agepsta rivers. It is 10 km long, with heights ranging from 2800 to 3200 m, and is composed of marl, conglomerates, limestones, diorites, tuffs, and other rocks from the marine and Cretaceous periods. Glacial landforms are well-developed:

  • cirques;
  • karst formations;
  • glaciers (the largest being Khyms-Aneke) cover about 5 sq. km. The lower slopes feature mountain meadow vegetation, beech and beech-deciduous forests, rhododendron, and plenty of berries such as currants, blueberries, and bilberries. High precipitation (up to 6 m of snow in some years) and a sharp temperature scale contribute to the breakdown of rocks.
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First ascent of Orlenok Vostochny peak (3140 m) by the Western counterfort and South-Eastern ridge in Arkhyz, Karachay-Cherkess Republic; **category 1B**.

Fig. 1. Map of the Orlenok massif area. Peaks: Western (3180 m), Main (3190 m), Eastern (3140 m). On the map - З, Гл, В.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: rock climbing
  2. Ascent area: Karachay-Cherkess Republic, Arkhyz, Psyish River valley
  3. Peak, route: Orlenok Eastern, 3140 m via Western spur and South-Eastern ridge
  4. Expected complexity category: 1B, first ascent
  5. Height difference:
    • 600 m;
    • total route length - 1500 m;
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Report on the ascent to the summit of Dalar via the eastern ridge, a combined route of 5A category of complexity.

North-West and Central Federal Districts Alpine Championship. Technical Altitude Class. 2024

Report on the Ascent of Dalar Peak (3988 m) via the Eastern Ridge (V. Kavunenko Route, 1964), Category 5A, Combined Terrain

The route was completed by the team from the Alpine Club of St. Petersburg, under the auspices of the "OGK" (St. Petersburg). Team Captain: A.V. Kichurchak.

Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the LeaderAndrey Vladimirovich Kichurchak, 1st sports rank
1.2Full Name, Sports Rank of ParticipantsElena Vadimovna Aleksandrova, 1st sports rank
1.3Full Name of Coach, Sports RankD.M. Kiselev, Candidate Master of Sports
1.4OrganizationSt. Petersburg Alpine Federation, "OGK" Alpine Club
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