Central Tian Shan

Mountain range168,596.15 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Completing a Category III climb on the West Ridge of **Pobeda Peak** (6,918 m) in the Central **Tian Shan**, with participation in rescue operations.

Passport

  1. Altitude-technical class.
  2. Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge.
  3. Pobeda (3) via 3 ridge (6918 m).
  4. 6A category of complexity, with participation in rescue works.
  5. Elevation gain: 2518 m, length — 4780 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (West ridge from Diky pass to 6700 m) — 44° (5230 m–6700 m).
  6. Used previously driven pitons and not removed — 7. | | Pitons driven: | | | | | :----------: | :------------: | :----------: | :-------: | :------: |
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Ascent to the Peak Pobeda West (6918 m) via the South Edge from the Diky pass, category 5A, made in 2005 by a team from Tatarstan.

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Tian Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge, 7.5 2. Peak — Peak Pobeda Zapadnaya (6918 m) via S ridge from Dikiy pass 3. Route category — 5A 4. Route type — combined 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 2600 m, route length — 4500 m, length of 5th category sections — 150 m, average slope — 45°;

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Description of the team's ascent to Peak Pobeda (7439 m) via the West Summit from Dykiy Pass, category 5B, with a detailed analysis of the team's tactics and actions.

Passport

  1. Class of high-altitude technical ascents.
  2. Central Tien Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge
  3. Peak Pobeda G. (7439 m) via West peak from per. Dikiy from l. Zvezdochka
  4. Complexity category — 5B
  5. Height difference — 3039 m, Average steepness of the ridge part of the route — 40 degrees.
  6. Pitons driven: Rock anchor pitons 12* 8 ice screws
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Ascent to the Peak Pobeda (7439 m) via Peak Pobeda Central (6918 m) along the northern ridge, grade 5B.

PASSPORT

  1. Climbing category — high-altitude
  2. Climbing area — central Tian Shan, Kokshaltoo ridge
  3. Peak Pobeda Main (7439 m) via col 6918
  4. Category of difficulty: 5B (6A)
  5. Route description: height difference — 3239 m, average steepness — 22°, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 300 m, including:
    • 6 category of difficulty — 50 m
  6. Number of pitons: rock, ice, chocks II, II, 0
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Report on the first ascent via the buttress of the "Camel" rock pinnacle on the northern wall of Peak Pobeda Zapadnaya (6918 m) in the Central Tian Shan, grade 6B complexity.

Russian Championship 2009. High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category

Report

Combined team of Novosibirsk region, Peak Pobeda Zapadnaya 6918 m, via the counterfort of the northwest wall (the "Camel" gendarme). Approximately 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.

Climbing Passport

  1. Region — Central Tien Shan, №7.5.
  2. Peak — Pobeda Zapadnaya (Vazha Pshavela) 6918 m, via the counterfort of the "Camel" gendarme on the north wall.
  3. Proposed category — 6B, first ascent.
  4. Route type — combined.
  5. Route characteristics:
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Route Description: траверс

SummitMateSSummitMate
21 days ago

Table with univariate and multivariate analysis results for various variables, including age, sex, and tumor characteristics.

| Variable | Univariate analysis | | Multivariate analysis | |

HR (95% CI)P valueHR (95% CI)P value
Age1.01 (0.99-1.03)0.061.01 (0.99-1.03)0.06
Gender1.00 (reference)0.0011.00 (reference)0.001
Tumor size1.00 (0.99-1.01)0.061.00 (0.99-1.01)0.06
Tumor grade1.00 (reference)0.0011.00 (reference)0.001
Tumor grade1.00 (reference)0.0011.00 (reference)0.001
Tumor grade1.00 (reference)0.0011.00 (reference)0.001
Tumor grade1.00 (reference)0.0011.00 (reference)0.001
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Route Description: траверс

SummitMateSSummitMate
21 days ago

The ascent to the summit of Everest via the South Col from the Khumbu Glacier is technically not challenging, but an extremely difficult route due to the high altitude and extreme weather conditions.

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Description of the ascent route to Peak Pobeda (Central Tien Shan) via the West Ridge, category 5B difficulty level, completed in August 1997.

1.1 General View of Pobeda

Sheet 1. Passport

  1. Class - High-altitude
  2. Central Tian-Shan, Engilchek valley
  3. Peak Pobeda via the West Ridge
  4. 5B category of difficulty
  5. Elevation gain 3039 m, distance 5.5 km
  6. Number of previously driven pitons: 20
  7. Team's climbing hours: 24 hours
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Ascent of Peak Pobeda (7439 m) via the West summit from the Diky pass, complexity category 5B, made by the expedition team "NEVA" in August 1999.

  1. Class of high-altitude technical ascents.
  2. Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge
  3. Peak Pobeda Gl. summit (7439 m) via West summit from Dikiy pass from Zvezdochka glacier
  4. Category of complexity — 5B
  5. Height difference — 3039 m Average steepness of the ridge part of the route — 40°.
  6. Pitons driven:
    • rock pitons — 5*
    • bolt pitons — 8
    • chocks — 6
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Description of a 6A category complexity route to the summit of Pobeda (7439 m) in the Central Tian Shan via Dykiy Pass and the West Ridge.

Passport

  1. Altitude class.
  2. Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge.
  3. Pobeda (Main) via Dikiy Pass over Pobeda (3) by 3rd category.
  4. 6A category of complexity.
  5. Elevation difference: 3039 m, distance — 10090 m. The average steepness of the main part of the route (Western ridge from Dikiy Pass to 6700 m) – 44° (5230 m – 6700 m), the whole route – 19° (4400 m – 7439 m).
  6. Previously hammered-in pitons: 15 rock, 8 ice, 1 snow (not removed). Hammered-in pitons: rock – 0, ice – 0, snow – 0.
  7. Team's walking hours: 26 hours, 5 days.
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