ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Class of ascent. Technical
2. Area of ascent, ridge. Western Tien Shan, Talassky ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route. P. Teke, 3870 m, via the left South edge.
4. Proposed difficulty category. 2B
5. Route characteristics:

7.14.17

Mt. Teke (3870 m)

(via the left, eastern edge — cat. 3A) (from the "Nefertiti" campsite — 2866 m) From the "Nefertiti" campsite, cross the stream to the other side and begin ascending via a wide couloir between the massive rocky edges of the massif. A prominent gendarme in the upper part of the edge, resembling the walls of the "Bastille" fortress, serves as a landmark. This edge remains to the right of our couloir. The ascent up the snowy (and later, debris-covered) couloir takes about 2.5 hours. Past a rocky outcrop in the middle of the couloir, with 15-meter walls and forming a shoulder at the top, ascend 200–250 m up the slope to reach the ridge at the level of the gendarme — a tower of very regular shape. This marks the beginning of the route. All gendarmes and rocky walls encountered along the ridge can generally be bypassed on the left.

• Movement along the left part of the ridge is via rocky ledges, with intermittent belaying; the difficulty of the sections is cat. II–III, up to 200–220 m.
• In the final third of the route, there is a 40-m ascent onto a gendarme via cat. III rocks.
• This is followed by a descent onto a 2–3 m wide, 30-m long saddle with a depth of up to 10–12 m. Snow cornices overhang. Belaying is thorough.
• From this point begins a fairly steep snowy ascent with individual rocky outcrops, stretching up to 100 m, with an initial slope of 45° increasing to 75°. Belaying is via ice axe, and later via pitons. The entire rocky cliff of the pre-summit triangle remains to the left.

Tanasyoky Ridge.

3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Tene, 3870 m, via the first eastern ridge (from the Nefertiti campsite).
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section I–5 cat. diff., average steepness in degrees. 1000 m, II–600–650 m, II–11 — 200 m, 11 — 200 m, 402459
6. Pitons driven for insurance to create artificial support points:

• Rock — 6
• Ice — 2

Zamok (3670) via the center of the North Ridge — 5A (rock)

Climbing Route Passport:

1. Western Tian Shan, Pskem Ridge, section №7.14 according to the 2013 classifier
2. Zamok peak (3670 m) via the center of the North Ridge (c. N. r.)
3. 5A category of difficulty
4. First ascent: Sergeev A. (1982)
5. Description compiled by: Shekhovtsov S., Makhmudov U., Mayorova L. (2013)

Route Description:

From the base camp on the moraine under Zamok peak, it takes 1 hour to reach the foot of the wall via scree or snow. Approach the wall, bypassing a massive red "rhombus" on the right, which is half the height of the wall. Above the "rhombus," a rock ridge is clearly visible, along which the route goes. Start of the route. Continue moving left and upwards along the wall via a system of scree inclined shelves, alternating with short, easy walls. — 400 m.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - technical 2. Ascent area - Western Tian-Shan, Pskem Ridge 3. Ascent route - peak "Koi-Tau" 3560 m via North-Eastern counterfort 4. Estimated complexity category - 4A 5. Route characteristics: - height difference - 520 m - average steepness - 66° 6. Pitons hammered: - rock - 68

August 15.

Route Description

3718 m. From the base camp located on the moraine under the northern walls of Mt. Piazak, the approach to the saddle of the North Ridge is via a snowy couloir (scree in summer) along the rocky outcrops on the left (1 hour). From the saddle: — right along the ridge (60 m, 45°, snow) under a rocky outcrop; — then along the couloir (40 m, 50°, snow, местами натёчный лёд) towards the rocky wall in the ridge (piton belay). The wall is traversed on the left and via broken rocks — exit to a steep snowy section of the ridge. Moving on the right side of the ridge, exit onto broken rocks. Along the snowy ridge 250 m to the summit (snow cornices on both sides, movement in rope teams). The summit is broken rocks. In fact, the summit of Piazak is double-headed. The Eastern and Western summits are at least 500 m apart and are of equal height. The ridge between them is snowy and presents no technical difficulty. The control cairn is set on the Eastern summit. The descent from the summit to the base camp took 2 hours via the ascent route. A easier descent is possible via the Western summit along its Western slope into another cirque, but in this case, having lost altitude, one will have to climb back to the base camp, bypassing Piazak from the West.

I. Rock grade 20: height difference — 700 m, average steepness — 45° 35: Borisov E.I. — Candidate Master of Sports, instructor. Lukin A.A. — 3rd sports grade, Launitc D.V. — 3rd sports grade, Luneva R.A. — 3rd sports grade, Baymølin G.A. — 2nd sports grade. 10. Team coach — MS Kuznetsova N.P. II. Date of departure on the route and return — April 30, 1982. 2. Western Tian-Shan, Pokemsky ridge. Piazak 3. v. Piazak, 3718 m, from the saddle of the Northern ridge. 4. Category of difficulty 2B, 15 rock 5. Route characteristics:

Report

On the First Ascent to the Summit of Uch-Zeit (4905 m)

via the North-Eastern Wall, Category 4A

1. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing Area: Tian Shan, southern part of the Fergana Ridge
2. Name of the Peak: Uch-Zeit (4905 m, N 40°42.434′, E 74°21.235′ (WGS 84))
3. Route Name: via the North-Eastern Wall
4. Complexity Category: proposed 4A
5. Route Type: ice
6. Route Elevation Gain: 550 m (according to GPS readings). Route Length: 960 m. Average Steepness: 35°. 7 ice pitches up to 65°, Al2.

REPORT

On the first ascent to the summit of Khaokan North (4848 m)

via the eastern ridge, category 1B

1. ASCENT DETAILS

1. Ascent area: Tian Shan, southern part of the Fergana Ridge
2. Summit name: Khaokan North (4848 m, N 40°32.864′, E 74°37.445′ (WGS 84))
3. Route name: via the eastern ridge
4. Category of difficulty: proposed 1B–2A
5. Route type: snow-ice
6. Elevation gain: 640 m (according to GPS). Route length: 1700 m. Average slope: 21°.

Ascent via the North Ridge

The summit of Ak-tash is located in the northwestern spurs of the Alay Range, in the upper reaches of the following glaciers:

• to the southwest — Dugoba,
• to the northeast — Ak-Tash,
• to the northwest — Dugoba-Shigou. The Ak-tash summit massif consists of heavily fragmented granite and limestone rocks.

Day One

From the "Dugoba" alpine camp, we proceed along the Dugoba River valley to the confluence of the Ak-Tash and Ulitor rivers (2 hours). At the confluence, the trail forks; the further path lies along the left orographic bank of the Ak-Tash River, bypassing a pronounced rocky massif on the right. The trail leads to a green meadow; after crossing it, we descend to the Surmetash River, and then, traversing the talus and grassy slopes above the left bank of the Ak-Tash River, we reach a canyon-like steep descent to the river (3–3.5 hours from the confluence).