ASCENT PASSPORT

Class of ascent. Technical
Area of ascent, ridge. Western Tien Shan, Talassky ridge
Peak, its height, ascent route. P. Teke, 3870 m, via the left South edge.
Proposed difficulty category. 2B
Route characteristics: height difference 1070 m average steepness 47°
Pitons hammered: for belay rock — II ice — bolts —
Number of walking hours. II.
Number of nights and their characteristics. No overnight stays.
Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualification. Shcherbakov Gennadiy Sergeyevich 2nd sports category Genikhovich Mikhail Vitalyevich 2nd sports category
Team coach. Troschinenko Leonid Andreyevich.
Date of departure on the route and return. May 7, 1981

Table of main characteristics of the ascent route.

Section characteristics pitons Date desig- nation length diffi- culty weather cond. ice avg. steep- ness relief condi- tion rock bolts 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 R0–R1 35 200 ledge 2 destr. good

R1–R2 50 60 chimney 3 destr " 2, ledges

R2–R3 40 80 ledge 3 snowed " 1, ledges

R3–R4 30–50 300 ledge 2 destr.

R4–R5 60 50 ledge 3 snowed " 2, ledges

1981 R5–R6 80 40 wall 4 monolith " 6

R6–R7 45–55 120 couloir 3 snow

R7–R8 30 200 ledge 2 snowed "

R8–R9 15 700 ridge 1 snowed "

Map of the ascent area Talassky ridge Alpysh-At 3650 p. 35 let Pobedy 4011 Manas 4482 p. Kok-Say Mazar Base camp Terek Teke 3870 S N — Group route

Brief description of the approach to the route

From the village of Kok-Say to the base camp at the mazar by car and then 3 hours along a good trail to the "Nefertiti" campsite. Approach from the "Nefertiti" campsite along the left (orographically) bank of the Terek River, past the waterfall falling from the right from the slopes of Teke peak, to the base of the largest scree. Then along it to the left ridge, oriented towards a rectangular rock finger above the saddle. Along the snowy slope, exit to the saddle on the edge of the rib.

Route diagram in YLLAA notation P. Teke 3870 700, 15°, 1