Map of the area ▲ – base camp △ – overnight stay location → – ascent and descent route from the summit.

Brief description of the route

1. Brief description of the approach to the route From the "Chimgan" tourist center, head upwards towards the GuliKam or Pesochny pass (1833 m). Then, through the pass, into the GuliKam gorge until the confluence of GuliKamsay and Kuilyuksay (1.5–2 hours). Here, the trail branches:

• one leads to the GuliKam gorges;
• the other — upstream along the Kuilyuksay riverbed to the start of the route — the base of the far-reaching left counterfort of the north-eastern wall of Bolshoy Chimgan.

3. The summit, its height, and the ascent route: Bolshoy Chimgan (3277 m), the left buttress of the north-eastern wall.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 4B.
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference along the route — 1677 m. average steepness of the route — 70° length of sections of category I difficulty — 2500 m, II category difficulty — 1880 m, III category difficulty — 190 m, IV category difficulty — 85 m, V category difficulty — 220 m, VI category difficulty — 20 m
6. Number of pitons driven: for belaying 114 pcs; for creating artificial footholds 2 pcs. rock — 114 pcs, ice and snow —
7. Number of travel hours — 23 hours.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one overnight stay, on a scree ledge, good bivouac.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification: Leader: Murtazin Oleg Galimovich — 1st sports category.

2. Climbing area, ridge ­— C ­— 8 Tian-Shan Talas Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route ­— Dvoeglazy, 4355 m NW ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty ­— 2B
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section 1­–5 km, average slope in degrees ­— height difference 1300 m, avg. slope 40°, length of sections: Cat. I complexity ­— 800 m
   Cat. II complexity ­— 300 m
6. Placement of pitons for insurance to create artificial anchor points:

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area, ridge — Western Tian-Shan, Tanassky ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Dzholoy, 4355 m, via the North counterfort of the North-Eastern ridge.
4. Presumed difficulty category — 3B category.
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section I–5, average steepness in degrees. 800 m, 950 m, II–III — 150 m, III — 800 m.
6. Pitons driven for protection to create artificial holds: Rock — 5 Ice — Bolt —

4135

Joloe Peak (East), 4355 m

via the north central ridge, cat. 4A (from camp on Joloe Glacier 3560 m) From the 3560 m bivouac located on the left side of Joloe Glacier, ascend via moraine (snow-covered depending on the season) to the north-central ridge lying to the right of the northern buttress. The ascent to the start of the route is via a snow-ice slope with a slope angle of 35–40° and a length of 120 m, to the left of the lower third of a monolithic rocky triangle. The route follows the left (as seen from below) edge of the triangle; climbing grade 3–4. Belays are alternating, via projections; use protection gear and pitons. The section is 130–140 m long. This is followed by a small snow-covered rocky ledge 3–4 m wide, after which there is

• a 35-meter rocky wall with a slope angle of 75–80°, leading to a rocky "window" and the ridge. Belays are via pitons and protection gear. Climbing is difficult. This is the first crux. The ascent continues along the ridge:
• Belays are alternating until a snow-covered ledge; the ridge is degraded, rocks are grade 2–3.
• Ahead lies a large gendarme, which is ascended head-on via a cleft and then a chimney; the height is 10 m, climbing is difficult, challenging.

2. Nearby ascents, ridge — Western Tian-Shan, Talassky ridge.
3. Summit, its height, ascent route — p. Dvopoy 4355 m, via the north central edge. 35 km
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4° cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference, section length 1–6 km, average steepness in degrees — 600 m, 11–400 m, 11–17 — 190 m, 17 — 130 m, 17–7 — 65 m, 45°–50°.
6. Number of loops hammered in for insurance to create artificial support points.
   • Rock — 12
   • Ice — 5
   • Hook anchors —

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Climbing type: rock
2. Ascent area, ridge: S-3 Tian-Shan, Talassky ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: DJOLOY ZAPADNY (WESTERN) via the northern glacier slope
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 630 m length of sections 5–6 difficulty category average steepness 50°
6. Pitons hammered: for insurance rock — ice — 42 bolted — for creating and organizing emergency stops rock — ice — bolted —
7. Number of travel hours: 6

3. The summit, its height, route ascent — Manas, 4482 m, southern ridge from a. Asmas
4. Assumed category of difficulty — 1B
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference, length of section I–5 cat. diff. average steepness in degrees — height difference 1182 m, avg. steepness 30°, length of sections: 1 cat. diff. — 300 m, 2 cat. diff. — 50 m
6. Number of hooks for belay to create artificial support points: rock — 2 pcs., ice — none, bolted — none
7. Number of walking hours — 10
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics — none

From bivouac 3300 "Майские ночёвки", located on the Manas glacier moraine, entrance on the right side (in the direction of travel) of the glacier - 2 hours walk under the saddle. Ascent to the saddle on a snowy slope 30-35°, between Bokovoy Manas and Manas Glavny. Here you should rope up. Further movement along the Bokovoe ridge, on large-block talus, steepness 30-35°; movement - 1 hour. From the ridge, descend into a 10 m gap, handrails are necessary, protection via ledges, pitons. Further ascent to the summit on talus, here too handrails are recommended.

Ascent Passport.

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Region of ascent, ridge — 1–3 Tian-Shan Talassky ridge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Manas, 4482 m D — 3 ridge 4. Expected category of difficulty — 1B 5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section I-5 category of difficulty, average steepness in degrees — height difference 1850 m, length of sections: I category of difficulty — 1800 m II category of difficulty — 50 m