Ascent Passport

1. Region: Western Tien Shan, Ugam Ridge. 7.11
2. Peak name: Sayram, route name: via the 2nd buttress of the North face.
3. Difficulty category: assumed 5B, 2nd ascent.
4. Route characteristic: rock.
5. Route height difference: 813 m, route length: 1127 m, section lengths: V difficulty category — 504 m, VI difficulty category — 73 m, average steepness: main part of the route — 77°, entire route — 72°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 4. Pitons used on the route: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: |

Rafikov I.Sh. (team leader), Vchinnikov S.I., Li N.B., Mendorf V.R. Route: Sairam – Ayutor, NE ridge, to the right. Length 45 km. Height 4724.6 m, 20 hours. 24-25.09.1984.

Ascent to Sairam Peak

• Group's route
• Sedelnikov's route, 5B cat. diff. www.alpfederation.ru

Crux of the route

North edge of Ayu-Tor peak (left profile)

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - rock 2. Ascent area - South-Western Tian-Shan, Chatkal Ridge 3. Ascent route - Traverse of Maly and Bolshoy Babaitag (Shakhtyor) from the south 3555 m 4. Estimated difficulty category - 2A 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 2000 m average steepness - 25° 6. Number of rock pitons driven - 7. Number of overnight stays - 8. Number of walking hours - 9

First ascender: Zhukov V. — rest of the information is lost. Further data on Shekhovtsov S.'s group.

Ascent Passport

1. Western Tian-Shan, Chatkal Ridge. #7 / 7.12 according to the 2001 classifier
2. Mt. Bolshoy Chimgan. 3309 m via N ridge / W spur.
3. Proposed category: 2A category of difficulty
4. Route type: Combined (ridge)
5. Route elevation gain: 1499 m (by GPS) Route length: 3680 m (by GPS) Section lengths:
   • II category of difficulty – 2267 m (by GPS)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Chatkal Ridge
3. Peak, its area, and ascent route. Bolshoy Chimgan, 3277 m, via the Western counterfort of the Northern ridge
4. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1700 m, average steepness — 30°, length of sections: R1–50 m, R2–60 m, R3–80 m, R4–60 m, R5–200 m, R6–50 m, R7–2.5 m, R8–40 m, R9–400 m.
5. Proposed difficulty category — 2B category of difficulty
6. Number of pitons used: for belaying, for creating belay stations: rock — 5, ice — 0, bolt — 0.
7. Number of travel hours — 10 hours
8. Number of nights and their characteristics — one-day ascent
9. Full name of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing type: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Tian Shan, Chatkal Ridge.
3. Peak, its area and ascent route: Bolshoi Chimgan, 3277 m, West wall of the North ridge.
4. Route description: height difference — 1700 m, average steepness — 40°. Length of sections R1–40 m, R2–20 m, R3–25 m, R4–50 m, R5–120 m, R6–40 m, R7–80 m, R8–40 m.
5. Proposed category of difficulty: 3A.
6. Number of pitons driven: for belaying: rock II.

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Tian Shan, Chatkal Ridge.
3. Peak, its area, and ascent route: Bolshoy Chimgan (3277 m), Northwest Wall.
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 1700 m, average steepness — 30°. Section lengths: R0–R1 – 25 m, R1–R2 – 60 m, R2–R3 – 60 m, R3–R4 – 70 m, R4–R5 – 200 m, R5–R6 – 40 m, R6–R7 – 80 m, R7–R8 – 300 m.
5. Proposed difficulty category — 3A.
6. Pitons hammered:
   • for belaying: rock — 12.

Description of the First Ascent Route to Peak Bolshoy Chimgan via the Left Counterfort of the Wall, Category 3B

February 6, 1978

We depart from the base camp located in the Ak-Sai valley at 10:00. We ascend to the Western Ridge via a Category 1B route. Upon reaching the junction of the Western Ridge and a false ridge (joining from the right), we descend with a slight traverse of the Western Ridge towards the summit. Descending into the Belder-Sai valley, we move upstream until the confluence of three couloirs. We continue up the left couloir. Approaching the wall, it's easy to identify the counterfort, which the route follows, forming the right side of the central couloir that divides the entire Belder-Sai rock massif into two parts. The route begins from a cave located at the boundary between snow and rock, one rope length away from the left edge of the counterfort. The cave provides a good overnight stay and has a guiding cairn. The entire approach took 9–10 hours.

February 7, 1978

Departure at 9:30.

R1

Climbing Passport

I. Climbing category — technical. 2. Climbing area — Tian Shan, Chatkal Range. 3. Climbing route — to v. Bolshoy Chimgan via the northwest wall, peak height — 3207 m above sea level. 4. Climbing characteristics: — height difference — 1500 m, — average steepness — 65°, — length of the difficult section — 600 m. 5. Pitons hammered: — rock — 55

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent region — Tian Shan, Chatkal Ridge.
3. Ascent route — to the summit of Big Chimgan via the north-eastern wall. Summit elevation — 3207 m above sea level.
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • elevation gain — 2000 m;
   • average steepness — 62°;
   • complex section length — 700 m.
5. Pitons hammered in:
   • rock — 35