Passport

1. Rock class
2. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge
3. Peak 4200 (Kyzylbash), via the left part of the NE wall
4. Proposed — 6B category, first ascent
5. Height difference: 695 m, length — 755 m, length of sections 5–6 category — 465 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 82° (3540–3990)
6. Pitons hammered in: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :-------- | :----------- | :---------- | :-------- | | 119/22 | 37/13 | 87/16 | 0 |

Ascent Passport

1. Area: Western Tian Shan, Ugam range, section number according to the 2001 classification table: 7.11.
2. Name of the peak: Kyzylbash (4200 m), route name: via the left part of the NE wall.
3. Difficulty category: 6A.
4. Route characteristics: rock.
5. Route elevation gain: 695 m, route length: 755 m, section lengths: 5th difficulty category — 258 m, 6th difficulty category — 207 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 89°, entire route — 82°, 72°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 7; including bolted pitons — 2. Pitons used on the route: | Rock | Bolted | Chocks | Ice | | :---------: | :---------: | :-----------: | :------: |

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, Sayram-Su gorge, 7.11
2. Peak name: Kyzylbash, route: via the left part of the NE wall
3. Route category 6A difficulty level according to KMGV 1999 >3×205
4. Route type: rock
5. Route elevation gain: 755 m Route length: 835 m Section lengths: R1 — 228 m, R2 — 217 m Average steepness: — main part of the route — 82°,

Route Description to

to p. Pioneer via the Eastern ridge, approximately category 3A difficulty, completed on August 20, 1987. Departure from the base camp at 6:00 AM, travel time to the 1st lake is 1.5–2 hours. From the 1st lake:

• Bypass the northwestern ridge from the right along the scree slope, heading towards a large, wide scree couloir.
• When ascending the scree couloir, stick to its left side, close to the slabs.
• Here is the 1st control point — the beginning of the route. Further:
• Along the ridge for 40 m, simultaneous movement to the 1st gendarme.
• The gendarme is bypassed on the right via a steep, inclined ledge (400 m).

Ascent Passport

1. Area: Western Tien Shan, Ugam Ridge, 7.11.
2. Peak name: Sayram, route name: via the right 3rd buttress of the N wall (4238 m).
3. Difficulty category: approximately 5A, first ascent.
4. Route characteristics: combined.
5. Height difference of the wall section: 574 m, route length: 1420 m, wall section length: 620 m, section lengths:
   • 5th difficulty category – 290 m,
   • 6th difficulty category – 20 m, average steepness of the wall section: 69°, entire route: 60°.
6. Hooks left on the route: total – 1.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class – combined 2. Ascent area – Western Tian-Shan, Ugam Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. "Sairamskiy" 4238 m, via left couloir of N slope 4. Expected difficulty category: 5A 5. Route characteristics: height difference – 780 m; average steepness – 70°; length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category – 270 m. 6. Pitons hammered:

I. Climbing type: rock, 2. Climbing area: Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge, 3. Sairam Peak, 4238 m, via Central Bastion of North Face, rock climbing, 4. Proposed complexity category: 5B, 5. Route characteristics:

• elevation gain — 910 m,
• length of sections with 5–6 cat. difficulty — 565 m,
• average steepness — 68°,

6. Number of pitons: rock — 72, protection devices No. 124, ice — 0, bolt — 0

Ascent Logbook

I. Ascent category: Rock climbing
2. Ascent area, ridge: Western Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak "Sairam" 4238 m, via the center of the north face.
4. Proposed difficulty category: sixth, 5B
5. Route characteristics:
height difference — 830 m
length of sections with 5B–6 difficulty — 485 m
average steepness — 76°
6. Number of pitons: for belaying, for creating artificial anchors

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class - rock
2. Ascent area - range; Western Tian Shan, Ugam range
3. Peak, its height, ascent route - Sayramsky peak, 4238 m, via the western counterfort of the northern wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category - 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference - 730 m
   • length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 404 m
   • average steepness - 70°
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating RTO

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, Sayram-Su gorge, 7.11.
2. Name of the peak: SAYRAM, route via the right buttress of the North face.
3. Assumed to be 5B cat. sl. First ascent.
4. Nature of the route: rock.
5. Height difference: 913 m. Route length: 1127 m. Length of sections:

• V cat. sl. — 504 m.
• VI cat. sl. — 73 m.