Ascent to the summit Studencheskaya

from N.-E. with cat. difficulty

From the overnight stays under the Studencheskaya peak, cross to the right bank of the Siama River and ascend to the moraine located to the N.-E. of the Studencheskaya peak. Then, via a couloir and easy rocks, ascend to the snowy plateau located in the N.-N.-E. part of the Studencheskaya peak massif. Traverse the plateau to the left, approach the "window" in the northern ridge of the peak, and through it, exit under the N.-E. rocky slopes of the peak.

The following options are possible:

Ascend via the N.-E. scree slopes of the peak from the Siama River.
Traverse the scree slopes of the eastern cirque via the scree near the rocks, pass through two couloirs, and approach the fourth one.

The landmark is that the peak is visible from it.

Ascend via the snow, and then via the rocks. In the upper part of the couloir, there is steep snow; ascend with protection up to the wall at the end of the couloir. The wall above the couloir has a pronounced crevice with chimneys, which is used for further ascent.

The first rocky outcrop of the wall, resembling "ram's foreheads," is passed with piton protection (30 m), then:

leftwards, bypassing the rocky ridge on the left
approach a несложному internal angle via разрушенным rocks
the internal angle leads to a platform

After the internal angle, a 30 m wall ascends upwards. The ascent up the wall is done via the right part, through an internal angle turning into a chimney. Ascent is only possible with piton protection. The section is complex. Steepness is 70–80°.

After the wall, there is a convenient platform surrounded by rocks on three sides, with a small cave on the right.

Further movement is leftwards along the wall with good ledges for 30 m. The rocks are of medium difficulty. Protection is provided through protrusions and pitons.

After this:

rightwards along a narrow ledge to reach the pre-summit snowfields;
the route then goes via a rather steep snowfield, and it's not recommended to deviate left; instead, go straight until convenient ledges appear on a gendarme on the right side along the route;
traverse rightwards via scree for 40–50 m, then leftwards upwards via ledges to the pre-summit ridge descending to the east;
exit to the ridge straight up for 30–40 m to a saddle.

Protection is provided through protrusions and pitons.

Along the ridge to the summit, rightwards for 40 m. The summit is already visible from the saddle, which is a huge rock with a cracked wall 4–5 m high. The ascent to the summit is done from the N.-E. side via this crack in the wall. Descent from the summit is done via the ascent route. On complex sections, a rope descent is organized.

Recommendations for climbers

Number of participants — 6 people
Initial bivouac — overnight stays under Studencheskaya
Departure time — not later than 5:00
Equipment for a group of 6 people: rock pitons — 10 pcs., hammers — 2 pcs., carabiners — 10 pcs., expendable rope — 10 m, main ropes 3×30 m.