Ascent to the peak ULAR from the Ular glacier via the NW ridge — cat. III
The ascent to the peak is made from the "Zelenaya polyana" bivouac located below the peak Bivachnaya. From the camp, one should go upstream along the stream flowing from the cirque of the peaks Khamsli, Ular, Khyrс, Kulay Dzovanon, to the old lateral moraine of the Ular glacier. From the moraine, ascend the snowfield (25–30°) to the Ular glacier plateau, which is crossed to the left in the direction of the Ular massif (its NW ridge), leaving the Vorob'inyi pass to the right.
The ascent route to the NW ridge goes along the rib to the left of the third couloir (counting from the bottom) from the Ular glacier plateau. The couloir is steep and narrow and leads to the saddle of the NW ridge. Start the ascent via this couloir. Approaching the bergschrund, leave the steep snowy couloir leading to the gap in the NW ridge to the right (hereinafter referred to as the gap between the 1st and 2nd jandarmes), cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge, or if the bridge is absent, descend into the crevasse.
Then move up to the left along the moderately difficult rocks of the lower part of the rib (40–45°) to the start of an inclined ledge and along the ledge to the left to its sharp narrowing. The total distance from the bergschrund is 40–45 m. The wall above the ledge is traversed by very difficult climbing (smooth holds, steepness about 90°, strongly sloping away from the rock) along the right edge, then move up to the right onto a poorly defined, very sloping little ledge at the base of a smooth rock slab (about 20 m, piton protection). The slab is traversed on friction (30–40 m). Piton protection. From the slab, move up along the right part of the second wall and then up along a narrow chimney with a plug in the lower part. Piton protection, difficult climbing, live rocks in the chimney. The chimney leads to the shoulder of the rib, where the 1st control cairn is located.
From the cairn, move straight up. The rocks are heavily smoothed, climbing is on friction, there are few places for piton placement (steepness 35–40°, length 50 m). Then move to the right along a ledge for 5–6 m and enter the gap between the rock "blade" and the rib massif. Here, there is a 4 m high wall with difficult climbing. After it, traverse about 40 m of moderately difficult rocks and enter an inclined chimney with many live rocks and a plug about 10 m up. After the plug, which is traversed on the outside, 5–6 meters further is a large rock outcropping — a good place for belay. Then about 10 m of climbing along an internal corner and 30–35 meters along ledges leads to the gap between the 1st and 2nd jandarmes (upper part of the 3rd couloir). Belay via outcroppings. Here is the 2nd control cairn.
From the gap, move to the right and up along a narrow inclined ledge on the sheer wall of the 2nd jandarme. The ledge is initially traversed by crawling, then, holding onto its rounded edges, one should lower their legs onto narrow (about 5 cm) little ledges and traverse the wall of the 2nd jandarme to the right (about 30 m). Piton protection.
Then move to the left and up along easy and moderately difficult rocks into a stony couloir leading to the ridge. Then move along the ridge with alternating belay to the summit.
The descent from the summit is made via the category 1B route down a couloir onto the Ular glacier. When descending along the snowfield, bear to the right, as there is a bergschrund at the bottom. Then from the glacier, descend along the right-bank moraine to the trail and down the valley to "Zelenaya polyana".
Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants – 6 people
- Initial bivouac – "Zelenaya polyana"
- Departure time not later than 6:00
- Equipment for a group of 6 people: rock pitons – 10 pcs., hammers – 2 pcs., carabiners – 8 pcs., main ropes 3 × 40 m.
Time calculation
"Zelenaya polyana" – Ular glacier plateau – 2 hours Ular glacier plateau – 1st control cairn – 2 hours 1st control cairn – 2nd control cairn – 2 hours 2nd control cairn – summit – 2 hours Descent from the summit to "Zelenaya polyana" – 2 hours Total 10 hours.
ULAR from the west
ULAR from approaches
ULAR from the glacier