Alps

Mountain range173,565.47 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Ascent description for the summit of Grand Capucin via *"Directe"* route (grade 6A) and first ascents of *"Russian Winter"* and *"Winter Voyage"* routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

Passport

  1. Category of rock climbing ascents.
  2. Alps, Mont Blanc Massif (France, Chamonix).
  3. Grand Capucin peak 3838 m, East face, "Directe" route (Bellin, Boivin, Maioli), 1983.
  4. Difficulty category 6A (ED2 according to the French classification).
  5. Height difference - 450 m, route length - 570 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 570 m, including 6 category - 530 m, average steepness of the route - 84°.
  6. Pitons driven: rock 49+2*/29+2* chocks 81/37
  7. Team's travel time - 12 hours.
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Description of the first ascent of the "Russian Winter" route on the East face of Grand Capucin in the Mont Blanc massif, made by Russian climbers in February 1999.

Passport

  1. Winter category.
  2. France, Alps, Mont Blanc massif.
  3. Grand Capucin peak, 3838 m, via the East face. Route "Russkaya zima" (Russian Winter).
  4. Proposed category — 6A, first ascent.
  5. Height difference — 508 m, length — 570 m, including wall section 413 and 420 m, respectively. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 30 m, 6th category difficulty — 390 m. Average steepness of the wall section 82°, from bergschrund to summit 71°.
  6. Pitons driven: rock bolts, pitons, ice screws | 42 | 230 | 0 | 0 | | :-: | :-: | :-: | :-: |
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Report on the ascent of the Demchenko CSKA team to the summit of Gran Paradiso via the NW slope, category 1B route, including a description of the route and its traversal.

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko to the summit of Gran Paradiso (4061 m) via the NW slope, category 1B difficulty. Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region, Gran Paradiso National Park Team leader: A. K. Popov Senior coach: E. V. Kuznetsova

Ascent Passport

  1. Graian Alps (Italy). Gran Paradiso area. № 10.3 (according to KGVМ 2011)
  2. Mt. Gran Paradiso 4061 m via NW slope (first ascent – M. Payot, J. Tairraz, 1860)
  3. Proposed category – 1B difficulty
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Report on the ascent of the KAiS MEI team to Gran Paradiso (4061 m) via the North-Eastern ridge from the Colle del Piccolo Paradiso pass.

Report

On the ascent of the KAiS MEI team to the summit of Gran Paradiso (4061 m) from the Piccolo Paradiso pass and the Northeast Ridge, 3A category of complexity, Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region, Gran Paradiso National Park Leader: Toporkov A.V. Senior coach: Korochkov A.S.

Climbing Passport

  1. Italy. Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region, Gran Paradiso National Park. Section 10.3 of the route classifier for mountain peaks.
  2. Summit Gran Paradiso (4061 m) from the Piccolo Paradiso pass and the Northeast ridge.
  3. First ascent: F.T. Wettered with mountain guides Laurent Proment and Eliseo Jeantet, July 20, 1876.
  4. Category: 3A, route type — combined.
  5. Height difference: 400 m.
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Report on the ascent of the KAiS MEI team to Gran Paradiso (4061 m) via the North Face and North-West Ridge, category 3B, Graian Alps.

Report

On the ascent of the KAiS MEI team to the summit of Gran Paradiso (4061 m) via the North Face and Northwest Ridge, category 3B. Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region (Valle d'Aosta) Gran Paradiso National Park Leader: Toporkov A.V. Senior Coach: Korochkov A.S.

Climbing Passport

  1. Italy. Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region (Valle d'Aosta) Gran Paradiso National Park. Section 10.3 of the mountain peak route classifier
  2. Gran Paradiso peak (4061 m) via the North Face and Northwest Ridge
  3. Category 3B, ice and snow terrain
  4. Elevation gain of the main part of the route: 300 m, total route: 400 m Route length: 870 m.
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Report on the ascent of the Demchenko CSKA team to the summit of Gran Paradiso via the NW ridge, describing a Category 3B complexity route.

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko to the summit of Gran Paradiso (4061 m) via the NW ridge, 3B cat. difficulty, Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region (Valle d'Aosta), Gran Paradiso National Park. Team leader: E. V. Korol Senior coach: E. V. Kuznetsova

Ascent Details

  1. Italy. Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region (Valle d'Aosta) Gran Paradiso National Park. Section No. 10.3 (according to KGBM 2011)
  2. Gran Paradiso peak (Gran Paradiso) 4061 m via the Northwest ridge
  3. Proposed category: 3A(B) cat. difficulty
  4. Route type: combined
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Report on the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko to the summit of Gran Paradiso (4061 m) via the S wall in the Graian Alps.

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA Demchenko team to the summit of Gran Paradiso (4061 m) via the N wall, 4B cat. diff., Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region, Gran Paradiso National Park Leader: N.V. Turbin Senior coach: E.V. Kuznetsova

Ascent Details

  1. Graian Alps (Italy). Gran Paradiso area. No. 10.3 (according to KGVB 2011)
  2. Gran Paradiso peak 4061 m via N wall (first ascent by C. Bertolone, F. Cappa, G. Giorda, 1958)
  3. Proposed category: 4B cat. diff.
  4. Route type: snow-ice
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Report on the ascent to the summit of Index (2595 m) via the South-Eastern ridge route, category 2A, completed by the training department of the AS "Polytechnic" on August 6, 2018.

REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF INDEX PEAK (2595 m) VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE ROUTE, CATEGORY 2A, BY THE TRAINING DEPARTMENT OF AK "POLYTECHNIC" ON AUGUST 6, 2018 Leader: N.N. Bakharev, Coach: V.A. Molodozhen St. Petersburg 2018

1. Ascent Details

№№1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderBakharev N.N. – 3rd sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsFineeva A.A. – 3rd sports rank, Sadovsky S.V. – 3rd sports rank, Duplak A.K. – 3rd sports rank, Lymanyuk A.Yu. – 3rd sports rank, Molodozhen V.A. – Master of Sports
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Report on the ascent to the summit of Index via the Brunna–Perro route along the eastern ridge, category 3A.

REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF INDEX PEAK (2595 m) VIA THE BRUNAT-PERRIN ROUTE OVER THE EASTERN RIDGE OF 3A CATEGORY BY THE TRAINING DEPARTMENT OF "POLITECHNIK" ALPINE CLUB ON JULY 29, 2018 Leader: V. A. Molodozhen Coach: V. A. Molodozhen

1. Ascent Passport

1. Ascent Passport

№№1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderMolodozhen V. A. — Master of Sports
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsFineeva A. A. — 3rd sports rank, Sadovsky S. V. — 3rd sports rank, Duplyak A. K. — 3rd sports rank, Lymanyuk A. Yu. — 3rd sports rank, Bakharev N. N. — 3rd sports rank
1.3Full name of the coachMolodozhen V. A.
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Climbing report on Matterhorn via Furggen South-East Ridge (5A grade) in the Alps, Italy.

Report

Ascent to the summit of Matterhorn (4478 m) via the SE ridge (Furggen), 5A category. Alps, Cervinia area, Valle d'Aosta region, Italy

Climbing Details

  1. Valais Alps, Italy/Switzerland, Valle d'Aosta region, Cervinia. Section № 10.3 (according to KGBM 2013)
  2. Summit Matterhorn/Monte Cervino [Matterhorn/Monte Cervino] 4478 m. Via SE ridge Furggen (M. Piacenza, J. Carrel, J. Giesper, 1911)
  3. Difficulty category — 5A (TD (Italian))
  4. Route type: rock
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