Peak named after Viktor Kolokolnikov (4100 m)

Ascent from Ozerny glacier, route category 2A (fig. 51). The peak named after Viktor Kolokolnikov is located in the Northern (Alatas) spur. Viktor Kolokolnikov, after whom the peak is named, was one of the first climbers of Kazakhstan. He died during the Great Patriotic War. The route to the summit from the Talgar mountaineering camp begins along a steep trail past the training rocks of the Eastern ridge, then along the ridges of ancient moraines of Ozerny glacier to the bivouac site at the Upper training rocks. Walking time is 1–1.5 hours. From here, along the terminal moraine of Ozerny glacier (see marking) to the right lateral moraine and along it to the overnight stay on the moraine opposite a large couloir between the peaks GTO and Kolokolnikov.

Ascent Passport

1. Class — ice and snow
2. Tian Shan, Kokshaal-Too range
3. Peak Auézov (5967 m) via the ice "board" on the Eastern wall
4. Complexity category — approximately 5B, first ascent
5. Height difference — 1267 m. Length of sections with III cat. diff. — 795 m, their average steepness — 48°
6. Pitons driven: Rock Chocks Ice 1/0 9/0 105/0
7. Climbing hours — 16.5, days — 2

Ascent Log

pr 59076

1. Ascent category — traverse
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range.
3. Peaks — 4430–4490–4420–4240 m, traverse.
4. Proposed — 4A cat. dif., combined, first ascent
5. Length — 3000 m. Length of sections of IV cat. dif. — 320 m.
6. Pitons driven — rock (9), chocks (8)
7. Climbing hours — 28, 2 days.

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT DELONE B. VIA THE NE SLOPE, CATEGORY 4B ROUTE BY THE TEAM FROM NOVOSIBIRSK ON AUGUST 15, 2019.

I. Ascent Passport

Report

on the first ascent of the route to the summit DVS, 3755 m, Altai Republic, Kosh-Agachsky district, North-Chuya ridge, Akturu gorge via the icy slope through Jelo pass 3A cat. diff. (combined) by a group of climbers at the Tomsk Alpinism Federation gathering on November 2, 2022.

Participants:

Temerev Ivan Mikhailovich, Master of Sports Khasanov Nail Albertovich, 3rd sports category Shubin Andrey Sergeevich, 3rd sports category Bunkov Viktor Evgenievich, 3rd sports category Saraev German Igorevich, 3rd sports category

7. Ascent Routes on Mt. Morion Vostochny (2125 m)

Via the North Spur, Cat. 2A

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Uluun River towards Mt. Morion. After 1 hour, begin ascending the couloir between Mt. Morion and Mt. Morion Vostochny, keeping to its left side. Bypass the initial, straightforward rocks of the spur on the right, then ascend onto the spur and continue up to the rocks. Movement is simultaneous. Further:

• Traverse across snow-covered slabs under a steep wall with fractures on the left and right parts — the first critical section of the route.
• The start of this section can be done from either the right or left, depending on the route conditions.
• After 15 meters, both paths converge before a 10-meter snow-filled internal angle; careful passage through this angle brings you to the left side of the spur, where belays can be organized. Continuing with alternating movement along the sharp, steep, and snowy ridge demands caution and the ability to set up belay points without halting. Before the second critical section — a wall with a vertical crack — it is necessary to establish a reliable belay station, as a fall could result in dropping into a steep couloir on the left. The wall must be ascended via the vertical crack, which accommodates good placements for nuts and cams. It is not recommended to bypass the wall on the left due to smooth, snowy rocks with minimal handholds and cracks. Further:

Russian Alpine Championship

High-altitude category

Report

ON THE ASCENT TO MANASLU (8163 m) FROM THE NORTH ("CLASSIC") SNOW-ICE ROUTE, 5A category of difficulty, BY THE "FALENOBLASTI" TEAM, FROM 23.09.2023 TO 28.09.2023

2023

www.alp-school.com

I. Ascent Passport

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF MONT BLANC DU TACUL VIA THE NW SLOPE "CLASSIC" 2A CATEGORY OF COMPLEXITY BY THE TRAINING DEPARTMENT OF AK POLITEKHNIK UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF DUPLIAC A.K. August 2, 2018

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Subpolar Urals, Sablinsky Ridge.
2. Summit: Sablya (1497 m) Route "LADOGA" via the left part of the NNE wall from Gofman's Glacier.
3. Assumed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route character: rock.
5. Height difference of the route: 820 m, including the wall part: 570 m. Route length: 915 m, including wall part — 602 m. Length of sections: 5th category of difficulty – 165 m, 6th category of difficulty – 217 m. Average steepness:

Report

on the ascent to the summit 2839.8 m Pseashkha West via the south-west ridge presumably 1B cat. diff. First ascent

Climbing Passport

1. Area: Western Caucasus, Krasnaya Polyana area, Pslukh valley, section 2.1 of the route classifier for mountain peaks.
2. Summit: 2839.8 m Pseashkha West, via the south-west ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B cat. diff., first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference: 700 m.