First ascent of the north wall of Talai Sagar peak (6904 m) in the Indian Himalayas, cat. 6B, 1480 m height difference, 12 days on the route.
Passport Technical category. Indian Himalayas, Garhwal. Thalay Sagar peak (6904 m), via the center of the northern wall (“High Voltage”). Proposed route — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. Elevation gain — 1480 m, total route length — 1815 m, including 1325 m of wall climbing. Length of sections by category of difficulty: 5th category — 305 m. 6th category — 920 m. Average steepness:
**2021 Russian Alpinism Championship: First Ascent to Peak Voennykh Topografov via South Face "Impromptu" Route, Category 5B**
Russian Mountaineering Championship 2021 Altitude Class Report on the first ascent to Peak Voennykh Topografov (6873 m) via the South Face route "Impromptu," approximately 5B category of difficulty, by the team from the Federation of Alpinism and Sports Climbing of Moscow, August 20-27, 2021. Head Coach: Kuznetsova E. V. Team Leader: Nilov S. A. Moscow 2021 Peak Voennykh Topografov (6873 m) South Face "Impromptu" Ascent Passport | 1. General Information | | | | :----------------------------------: | :----------------------------: | :-----------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Team Leader | Nilov S. A. (MS) |
Description of the ascent to Sarykuyakudzi peak (6220) via the eastern ridge in the Kongur Muztagh range in Chinese Pamir, with a complexity category of 5A, completed in 2007.
11.3.16 Ascent Passport Area: Kongur Muztagh Range (Chinese Pamir). Valley: Kengsuvar Section number according to the 2001 classification table – 11.3 Peak name: Sarykayakudji. Route name: Via the Eastern Ridge Category of difficulty – proposed 5A. Route type: ice and snow. Height difference of the route: 828 m (according to GPS readings).
Report on the first ascent of the route "Think Twice" on the Central Buttress of the NE wall of Muztagh Tower (7273 m) in Karakoram, made by the team of the Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Climbing in 2012.
Russian Alpinism Championship 2012. High-altitude ascents class Ascent Report of the Moscow Alpine and Climbing Federation team to Muztagh-Tower (7273 m) via the Central Buttress of the Northeast Face, "Think Twice" route — first ascent, approximately 6B category of difficulty Dedicated to the memory of Pavel Kozek, who perished on the slopes of Muztagh-Tower on August 25, 2008 Senior coach: S. Kotachkov, team leader: S. Nilov Moscow 2012 Ascent Passport Karakoram, Pakistan — section 10.2 according to KMGV 2008
Report on the first ascent of Mузтаг-Ата via the South Ridge, category 5B.
Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing Report On the first ascent to Muztag-Ata (7546) via the south ridge Moscow, MAI Tourism Club, 2005 Ascent Passport Region: Kongur Muztagh Range (Chinese Pamir). Valley: Kalaxung, classification table section number for 2001 — 11.3 Peak name: Muztag-Ata. Route name: via the south ridge from Kalaxung Glacier. Proposed category: 5B.
Ascent description of Muztagh Ata (7546 m) summit via the southern ridge in 2005, complexity category 5B, snow and ice route.
Ascent Passport Region: Eastern Pamir, China, section 11.3 of the classification table. Peak name: Muztag Ata, 7546 m, route: via the South Ridge. Proposed category: 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. Route type: ice and snow. Route elevation gain: approximately 1450 m. Route length: approximately 3200 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 20 m. Average slope: main part of the route – approximately 45°,
Description of the ascent via an alpinist route of the 5A category of difficulty via the northwestern ridge of the Mutztag Ata peak (Kunlun Mountains, China) in 2004.
Ascent Passport Region: China — Kunlun, Kongur Muztagh range. Section number according to the classification table 11.3. Peak name: Muztag Ata. Route name: via the Northwest Ridge Route classified by FASIЛ KР: 5A category of difficulty, first ascent Route character: snow-ice Height difference of the route: 3450 m. Route length: 14000 m. Length of section V category of difficulty \\\\\\\\\\\ m, VI category of difficulty \\\\\\\\\\\ m. Average steepness 30° Pitons left on the route: total \\\\\\\\\\\ including piton hangers \\\\\\\\\\\. Use of pitons on the route:
Ascent of Muztagh Ata (7546 m) via the West Ridge, grade 5A, made by a Russian team in 1997.
Passport Class: High-altitude technical Eastern Pamir, Kashgar Mountains (western China) Peak Muztag-Ata (7546 m) via the western ridge, cat. diff. 5A Proposed cat. diff. 5B (possibly the 3rd ascent by a purely Russian team) Height difference — 3000 m, length — 9000 m, average slope — 20° Used pitons, 6 ice screws Climbing days — 3.5–5 (including descent to base camp) Overnights: 1st in tents on a rocky platform
Report on the first ascent by a Russian climbing team via the east ridge of Peak Kyzylsel (6,525 m) in the Kongur Muztagh range in 2000.
Climbing Passport Region: Kongur Muztagh Range (Kunlun). Gorge: Chimgan. Section number according to the 1999 classification table No. 11.3 Name of the summit: Pik Kyzylsel Route name: via the eastern ridge from the South Chimgan Glacier. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty Route type: Ice and snow Height difference of the route: 1685 m (by altimeter). Route length: 4712 m. Section length: 5th cat. diff. – 2 m
Report on the ascent to the summit of Voennyh Topografov via the center of the Southwest wall, first ascent by the team from Krasnoyarsk Krai and Novosibirsk Oblast.
Russian Mountaineering Championship High-altitude Class 2023 ASCENT REPORT on the ascent to the peak of Voennykh Topografov, 6873 m, via the center of the Southwest wall 6B category of difficulty (approximately), first ascent by a combined team from Krasnoyarsk Krai and Novosibirsk Oblast. Period: 01.08.2023 – 07.08.2023 | | 1. General Information | | | :-- | :--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | :------------------------------------------------------------------------ | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Parfyonov A.A. (Master of Sports) | | 1.2 | Full names, sports ranks of the team participants | Mukhametzyanov R.N. (Master of Sports), Sukharev A.Yu. (Candidate Master of Sports) |