4.2.156

Description of the ascent to Peak Paustovsky via the north-eastern ridge

We reach the Paustovsky glacier via moraine. The glacier cirque is bounded by a very steep rocky-ice wall. The upper part of the glacier is steep and gradually turns into the wall. Crampons are necessary here, and the last 30 meters require step cutting. We reach steep rocks in the right part of the wall. The wall has an overall steepness of about 75°. It consists of two sheer sections, each 30 meters long. The rocks are heavily destroyed, requiring piton belay. Beyond the rocks, a steep ice ascent begins. It is overcome with crampons and leads to the saddle between Peak Paustovsky and the Viewpoint peak. After ascending the north-eastern ridge, one should:

• traverse a steep snowy slope to the left;
• move to the eastern ridge of the summit. We traverse 250 m of easy to medium rocks and reach the pre-summit plateau. The ascent to the summit is made from the left along easy rocks and snow. Descent is via the Viewpoint peak. The entire route from the start of the moraine and descent takes about 10 hours. The group requests to evaluate the route as category 3A.

4.2.154

Description of the ascent to Peak Paustovsky via the North Ridge

We reach the Paustovsky glacier moraine. The lower part of the glacier is flat and crevasse-free. One should head towards a large rocky outcrop that ends in the north ridge. Then:

• Ascend via ledges and steps with careful belaying, deviating slightly left.
• Be aware of loose rocks.
• In the upper part, a snow cornice is bypassed on the left. The path along the rocky outcrop leads to the ridge. Here, a large snow plateau with a slope to the right opens up. After traversing 80–100 m, we reach the snow ridge, which should be traversed wearing crampons. The ridge ends at a gendarme. The ascent to the gendarme begins with a steep ice slope. About 2/3 of the way up, there's a rocky outcrop. Belaying is done using an ice screw. The slope's steepness is 60–70°, and it's ascended by cutting steps.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent region: North Tien-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe gorge
3. Peak, route: Pik Pioner (4031 m), from Pioner pass.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 1B
5. Height difference: 170 m total route length: 300 m, wall section length: — of which 5 pitches — 0.6 pitches — 0, average steepness of wall section — 40°, average steepness of route — 40°
6. Pitons driven (numbers in denominator — for IT): no data for rock, ice, cams, bolted
7. Number of walking hours/days:
8. Overnight stays: —

SKA SAVO

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE SOUTH WALL OF PIK PIONER 4050 m (left side) VIA ROUTE CAT. III (approx.)

SKA SAVO Team

Golodov Yu.F. — Master of Sports — team leader, Chumakov V.D. — Candidate Master of Sports — team member, Pavlov V.F. — 1st class — team member, Nesolenyi V.P. — 2nd class — team member, Mozgovoi A.G. — 2nd class — team member. 190 cm, 40 m, 60°, 3 stoppers, 5 hours.

Almaty

June 22, 1980

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent region — Zailiyskiy Alatau 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Pioner 4050 m via the left part of the southern wall 4. Expected difficulty category — 3B 5. Route characteristics: a) height difference of the wall section 190, ridge section — 210 m, b) length of sections — II difficulty category — 460 m, III difficulty category — 135 m, IV difficulty category — 40 m, c) average steepness of the route — 60° 6. Number of pitons driven:

Climbing Route Description

TO MT. PIONER VIA THE NORTHERN FACE.

1. General Geographical Information

Mt. Pioner is located in the Malo-Almatinsky spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, in the northern spurs of the Tian Shan mountains. The height of the described peak is 4100 meters above sea level. The Malo-Almatinsky spur extends far to the north from the main ridge and is bordered by two gorges of the Malaya Almatinka and Leviy Talgar rivers. It ends with a small horseshoe-shaped formation of nine peaks, creating the Bogdanovich glacier cirque. The Bogdanovich glacier, 2 km long, gives rise to the Komosomolka stream, which flows into the Leviy Talgar river. The snow line of the ridge is at 3400-3500 meters above sea level. The eastern, southern, and western slopes are free from glaciation. Pink granite is the primary rock forming the Pioner - Uchitel peaks massif. The proximity of the desert and semi-desert zone significantly influences the harsh mountain climate, creating very favorable weather conditions for year-round climbing. The average annual temperature is +7...+10 °C. The minimum temperatures in January are -30...-35 °C. The prevailing wind direction is southwest.

2. Route Description to the Summit

There are two classified routes to the summit of Mt. Pioner:

1. Category 1B difficulty - via the western couloir from Pioner sky pass;

North Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau

Peak Pioner

via the central buttress of the South Face 4A cat. dif.

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table of 20_ year — North Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau, Maloye Almatinskoye gorge.
2. Name of the summit, its height, name of the route: Peak Pioner 4031 m, via the central buttress of the South Face
3. Proposed: 4A cat. dif.

Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Pioneer

via the right part of the South Face 4A cat. diff.

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table of 20_year — Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe gorge.
2. Name of the summit, its height, name of the route: Peak Pioneer 4031 m, via the right edge of the South Face
3. Proposed: 4A cat. diff.

Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Pioneer

via the right edge of the South Face Category 4A difficulty

Ascent Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe valley.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Pioneer 4031 m, via the right edge of the South Face
3. Proposed: Category 4A difficulty

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Trans-Ili Alatau.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Pioneer, 4050 m, via the southern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: a) wall height difference — 275 m; b) section lengths: 2 — 30 m; 3 — 445 m; 4 — 115 m; 5 — 92 m; c) average wall steepness — 68°.
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating intermediate belays, rock pitons — 33, bolt pitons — 4, chocks — 6.
7. Total climbing hours — 7 h 20 min.
8. Number of overnight stays — none.
9. Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualifications: