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Description of the ascent to Peak Paustovsky via the north-eastern ridge
We reach the Paustovsky glacier via moraine. The glacier cirque is bounded by a very steep rocky-ice wall. The upper part of the glacier is steep and gradually turns into the wall. Crampons are necessary here, and the last 30 meters require step cutting.
We reach steep rocks in the right part of the wall. The wall has an overall steepness of about 75°. It consists of two sheer sections, each 30 meters long. The rocks are heavily destroyed, requiring piton belay.
Beyond the rocks, a steep ice ascent begins. It is overcome with crampons and leads to the saddle between Peak Paustovsky and the Viewpoint peak.
After ascending the north-eastern ridge, one should:
- traverse a steep snowy slope to the left;
- move to the eastern ridge of the summit.
We traverse 250 m of easy to medium rocks and reach the pre-summit plateau. The ascent to the summit is made from the left along easy rocks and snow. Descent is via the Viewpoint peak.
The entire route from the start of the moraine and descent takes about 10 hours. The group requests to evaluate the route as category 3A.
The eastern ridge of Peak Paustovsky.
The saddle between Peak Paustovsky and the Viewpoint peak.
Expedition results. Climbing possibilities of the area
The 1962 KazGU expedition was conducted from April 29 to May 2, 1962. As a result of the expedition, ascents were made to all major peaks in the area: Peak Paustovsky, Viewpoint peak, "Friendly Kids" peak, Kukana Tulebaev peak, "3850" peak, and the Romantics peak.
Previously, S.D. Kuderin and F. Khabibulin had made an ascent to the "3800" peak. Currently, the 4000 m peak (No. 10) and the Ice Ridge peak remain unconquered. The latter peak may be of some sporting interest.
Among new routes on already conquered peaks, the ascent to the Romantics peak from the north is likely to be of the greatest interest. This is a steep rocky wall, not less than category 4 difficulty. There are several interesting routes on Peak Paustovsky.
Overall, the area is very close to the "Issyk" tourist base (the approach will take no more than 6 hours in the summer) and deserves attention. Here, ascents can be made from category 1 to category 4 difficulty, in conditions close to expeditionary. At the same time, the area has a number of advantages:
- The aforementioned short approaches;
- A convenient location for a base camp;
- Relatively small relative height;
- Compact location of objects.
In our opinion, the area deserves more detailed exploration.
The Ice Ridge peak.