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Description of the ascent to Peak Paustovsky via the North Ridge

We reach the Paustovsky glacier moraine. The lower part of the glacier is flat and crevasse-free.

One should head towards a large rocky outcrop that ends in the north ridge. Then:

Ascend via ledges and steps with careful belaying, deviating slightly left.
Be aware of loose rocks.
In the upper part, a snow cornice is bypassed on the left.

The path along the rocky outcrop leads to the ridge. Here, a large snow plateau with a slope to the right opens up. After traversing 80–100 m, we reach the snow ridge, which should be traversed wearing crampons. The ridge ends at a gendarme.

The ascent to the gendarme begins with a steep ice slope. About 2/3 of the way up, there's a rocky outcrop. Belaying is done using an ice screw. The slope's steepness is 60–70°, and it's ascended by cutting steps.

From the outcrop, one should:

Traverse left into the ice couloir (5–6 steps);
Reach the red rocks;
Then go straight up the rocks to the crest;
Then ascend via medium rocks to the top of the gendarme.

The next 2 gendarmes are ascended directly head-on. The 4th one can be taken head-on with careful piton belaying, then rappel 40–50 m and exit the slope onto the ridge. Our group bypassed the gendarme to the right. The rocks are sheer with few holds and ledges.

Then, we entered a snow-ice couloir and gradually reached the ridge. The further path along the ridge involves a series of ascents; the rocks are medium and easy. We ascended via easy rocks to the summit dome.

The descent via the East Ridge and then through the Overview peak is not particularly challenging. The entire ascent takes 10–12 hours.

The group requests that the route be rated as Category IIIA.