Central Asia
Route Description: траверс 3-х вершин
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of Peak Oshanin (Trail of the Three Peaks) in 1975 by a team led by Leonid Lozovsky.
Passport
First ascent made in 1975
- Climbing category — traverse
- Climbing area — North-West Pamir
- Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights — Traverse of the three peaks of Oshanina (6305 m, 6380 m, 6300 m) from Turamys Glacier.
- Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 2450 m. Average steepness 50°. Length of the difficult section 1700 m.
- Pitons hammered: rock 133 ice 76
Route Description: левому баст. СВ стены
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to Peak Moskovskaya Pravaya (6077 m) in the Shakhdara ridge of the Pamir Mountains, category III, with characterization of the terrain and technical details.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- ASCENT CLASS: HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL
- ASCENT AREA, RANGE: SW PAMIR, SHAKHDARINSKY RANGE
- PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: P. MOSKOVSKAYA PRAVDA, 6075 m. VIA NE WALL, LEFT BASTION,
- ANTICIPATED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 6
- ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: ELEVATION GAIN: 1400 m SECTION LENGTH: 5/6 km approx. 11–400 m, 11–220 m, IV–200 m, V–540 m, VI–700 m AVERAGE STEEPNESS: 70–75°
Route Description: В ребру
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of the Mos DSO "*Zenit*" team to *Pik Moskovskaya Pravda* (5746 m) in the south-western Pamir on August 6-7, 1972, via the eastern edge.
FOR THE CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE CENTRAL COUNCIL OF THE ZENIT VOLUNTARY SPORTS SOCIETY in the II category of high-altitude and technical ascents. P. MOSKOVSKAYA PR AVDA VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE 45 cat. tr. TEAM MOSCOW ZENIT VOLUNTARY SPORTS SOCIETY:
- SHATILOV V.N. — TEAM LEADER
- KRUTYKH A.V.
- KRAYUSHKIN D.A.
- SAFRONOV V.A. August 5–7, 1972 Technical characteristics of the route along the eastern ridge of Pik Pamyati Zhertv Tetnuldа (5746 m) in the southwestern Pamir, based on the results of the first ascent by a group of participants in the Donetsk Alpinade on July 6–8, 1967.
Route Description: В стене
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of the route on the eastern wall of Peak Akademik Krylov in 1953 with a detailed description of the ascent stages and technical details.
RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION
4144.
Protocol No. 332 of April 6, 1971
5B first ascent
To the Classification Commission of the USSR Mountaineering Federation
South-Western Pamir
PIK AKADEMIKA KRYLOVA VIA EASTERN WALL
(Moscow Truth) (first ascent, approximately 6th category of difficulty)
Ascent to Evgenia Medvedeva peak via the Southwest Wall, a description of a challenging alpine route.
2019
Route Description: ц. СВ ребру
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit via the northwest wall with tactics and technical details.
22.08.32 / 4
Route Description: 3 кф. Ю стены
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit, technical details, and key features of the alpinist path.
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Route Description: Ю стене
SSummitMate### Ascent of Peak Engels via the South Face Category VI difficulty, climbed by a team of mountaineers in 1978.
ASCENT REPORT
- Ascent classification — high-altitude technical climb.
- Ascent area — South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin Range, Kinty-Dzherab valley.
- Peak — Engels Peak 6510 m via the South Face.
- Anticipated difficulty category — 6.
- Route description: elevation gain — 1300 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 912 m; average steepness of the rock section — 75°, average steepness of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 85°.
- Pitons used: for belaying, for creating intermediate anchors. rock pitons 137, 70; ice screws 0, 0; bolt pitons 0, 14.
- Total climbing hours — 3 h 30 min.
Route Description: Ю стене
SSummitMateAscent to the summit via the western counterfort of the northern ridge, overcoming difficult rock and ice sections.
1,9 25 1 △ 6400 24 135 15200
Route Description: ЮВ ребру
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of Peak Engels via the North-East Wall, category 6B difficulty, with a detailed description of the route and technical characteristics.
100
ON THE CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE U.S.S.R.
Peak Engel'sa
via the South-Eastern WALL
(South-Western PAMIR)
- Kavunenko 15.0
- Zaits P.V.
- Levin B.V.
- Filippov D.A