Route Description

to peak 3900 m (site "Uglovoy") via NW ridge, cat. III Having left the bivouac located near the Hydrometeorological Station on Golubina Glacier, cross the glacier and approach the route. Section O–I — an inclined, free rock shelf with a slope of 35° is traversed simultaneously with belay on protrusions. A control cairn is located on a small ledge. From the control cairn, go straight up the wall with a slope of 65° — a passage of medium difficulty, 40 m. Convenient belay points. 8–9 pitons per rope. Section 2–3 — an exit to a gendarme — 60 m: the slope increases to 75°, belay points are convenient, rocks are heavily destroyed, also 8–9 pitons per rope. 4 hours from the start of the route. Bypassing the gendarme (section 3–4) along the main shelf with a slope of 40° simultaneously with belay through protrusions. Further, 120 m along a steep wall of medium difficulty with a slope of 85° (in some places up to 90°). Piton belay — up to 10 pitons per rope. From here, moving simultaneously in traverse to the left along destroyed rocks, exit to the summit. 4 hours from the gendarme. Descent along the ridge to the last gendarme (simultaneous movement). From the last gendarme, rappel 60 m to the western side with an exit to the main shelf. Further, to the ice-snow plateau and down the couloir of route 2A to peak 4 IO 7, descend to Golubina Glacier. Recommendations:

• Most of the route is traversed on friction, so it is not recommended to move along the route in bad weather. Note: I. In general, according to the length of sections of category IV, the route deserves category 4A difficulty, however, its relatively small overall length allows recommending it to be classified as 3B.

2. The large number of pitons indicated in the report is explained by the low qualification of the participants (III sports category) and the fact that this ascent was a first ascent.

R2 60 m 75° IV
R1 40 m 2A
R0 150 m 2A + +

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Ка­пра-эк­зе­ма па­уо­ва Ана­ста­сии

Scheme

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Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Uchitel via the Eastern Ridge.

Climbing Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ala-Archa gorge. Peak Uchitel 4550 m. Presumed 2A category of difficulty, first ascent. Route character — ridge. Route height difference — 700 m. Route length — 1700 m.
2. Section lengths: I — 1550 m, II — 150 m,
3. Average steepness: main part of the route — 30°.
4. Pitons left on the route: total — 0;

A. S. Komeroro 4280 m

Pic. 1. General view of the Susamyr massif. From right to left the peaks are:

• 1st Zapadnaya (West)
• 2nd Zapadnaya (West)
• Pik Malysh
• Tsentralnaya (Central)
• Snezhnaya (Snowy)
• Ravnotsvetnaya (Evenly Colored) Taken from the north from the Karak-too glacier.