Ascent Log

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Alaysky ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. 5027 (p. Commune) via the south-eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: combined elevation gain, 1000 m; length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 30 m; average steepness — 45°.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating artificial holds on:
   • rock — 7;
   • ice — 3;
   • bolted — none.

ASCENT PASSPORT.

1. Ascent class — technical, 3B.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Alaysky ridge, Kок-su tract area, cirque of Aydarbek glacier.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 5027 (p. Commune), via the North ridge.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — combined, 1300 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 340 m. Average steepness 55°.
6. Pitons driven: for belay, for artificial support points:
   • rock — 20;
   • ice — 11;

3. Summit, its height, ascent route

Peak 4784 m North-Eastern edge of p. Communa North.

4. Proposed difficulty category

5A cat. (first ascent)

5. Route characteristic, height difference

Combined 1500 m Length of sections with 5–6 cat. difficulty: 465 m Average steepness: 50°

6. Pitons driven: for belay, for creating artificial handholds:

Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alay, Southern spurs of the Alay Ridge, Kemisdykty gorge.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route — Koltsov Peak, Main summit, 4824 m, East face.
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: the route is combined, height difference — 900 m, including wall part — 700 m, length of 5th difficulty sections — 395 m, length of 6th difficulty sections — 150 m, route length — 1580 m, average steepness — 73°.
6. Pitons used (for belay/for aid climbing): rock — 79/3, drilled — 1, ice — 3, chocks — 46/2.
7. Number of climbing hours — 18.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one bivouac on a ridge in a tent.
9. Full name of the leader, team members, and their qualification:

REPORT

on the second ascent of Peak Koltsova, Main summit, 4824 m, East face Onysk OС – fast ascent category AA (14–15) 07.81. p. Koltsova Main 4824, 15.07.81.

BRIEF EXPLANATION

To the table of main characteristics

14.07.81. After receiving a full consultation on the passage of the wall section from the Nikolaichuk — Ufimtsev group on 13.07.81 via radio, we set out on the route at 06:00. We approached the start of the route on the right side of the large couloir of the East face. The route begins to the left of a small cave, from a rock straight up the overhanging wall about 30 m. Then the wall turns into an internal corner with eaves — 60 m. Attention! The rocks are destroyed!

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent classification: technical. 2. Ascent area: Southern spurs of the Alay Ridge, Kок-Су valley. 3. Tekelik Peak, 5080 m, NE edge. 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference 5080–5820 = 1260 m, length of technically difficult sections 540 m, average steepness 60°. 6. Protection: 63 rock anchors, 29 ice screws, 23 rappel rings with carabiners. 7. Total climbing time: 23 hours. 8. Number and characteristics of bivouacs: two bivouacs, good conditions.

PASSPORT

1. Technical category
2. Alayskiy ridge (Pamir-Alay)
3. v. Tekelik via the northern bastion of the eastern ridge
4. Proposed 5B cat. diff., second ascent
5. Height difference of the wall sections R0–R13 — 440 m, R23–R32 — 255 m; length of sections R0–R13 — 505 m, R23–R32 — 335 m
6. Pitons hammered in
   • rock 87
   • drilled 0
   • chocks 13

I. Climbing category

technical 2. Climbing area, ridge Alaisky 3. Peak, its height, climbing route Tekelik Yuzhny named after Oлеко Dundich 4925 m via the Southern ridge 4. Proposed category complexity 3B (first ascent) 5. Route characteristics: height difference ridge 1000 m length of sections 5–6 c/tr

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Alai Range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Terekhova Peak, 4830 m, via the southern ridge.
4. Expected complexity category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics — rock climbing, height difference — 650 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 100 m, average steepness of the route — 60°.
6. Pitons hammered in: | | for belaying | for creating artificial footholds | | :----------------------------- | :----------- | :--------------------------------- | | rock | 3 | none |

п. Дружбы 5196 When choosing the route, safe approaches to it were studied, and reconnaissance of the approach was carried out. Since the ridge is a smooth monolithic rock, alternating with heavily destroyed ones, we took several large loops (Ø up to 1 m) to organize insurance points by throwing them on very large ledges, which justified itself very well. And also full sets of nuts and "friends" were taken, which is irreplaceable on such relief. The complexity of the relief made it necessary to rely on the work of the first participant without a backpack. The remaining participants climbed up the ropes with top rope. To provide the leader with pitons and nuts, the second participant cleaned the route from pitons as much as possible. On easy sections of the route, the first participant went with a light backpack. By the end of the first day of the route, it started raining with snow, so in the morning of the second day everything was covered with a small layer of snow. On the first overnight stay on a rubble inclined shelf, ropes were organized, fixed on ice screws that passed through the tent. All participants spent the night in harnesses and on self-arrest. Observers (MS Boyko V., CMS Lebedev M., doctor Valikov E.) were staying overnight near the glacier, from where the route was almost entirely visible. Regular radio communication (at least 2 times a day) was maintained with groups in the Gaumysh gorge and through them with the base camp in the Alaudin gorge. ¹