REPORT

on the second ascent of Peak Koltsova, Main summit, 4824 m, East face

Onysk OС – fast ascent category AA (14–15) 07.81. p. Koltsova Main 4824, 15.07.81.

BRIEF EXPLANATION

To the table of main characteristics

14.07.81. After receiving a full consultation on the passage of the wall section from the Nikolaichuk — Ufimtsev group on 13.07.81 via radio, we set out on the route at 06:00. We approached the start of the route on the right side of the large couloir of the East face. The route begins to the left of a small cave, from a rock straight up the overhanging wall about 30 m. Then the wall turns into an internal corner with eaves — 60 m.

Attention! The rocks are destroyed! The entire set of rock pitons, heavenly hooks, and chocks were used when passing these sections. The internal corner leads to a monolithic overhanging chimney with plugs. Climbing is pleasant, piton protection. The chimney leads to the base of a destroyed 20 m wall, the upper part of which is covered by an eave. We pass the wall with free climbing and then along a simple chimney turning into an internal corner, we approach the base of the overhanging section. We pass the vertical wall first along a crack, and then along an overhanging internal corner. Here on a small ledge is the bivouac of the first ascenders. Since it's 15:00, we decided to continue moving. From the ledge straight up along the overhanging 30 m wall with a slit, then the steepness increases, the rocks become more destroyed. Along the 50 m overhanging slit, overcoming several eaves, we exit onto a small ridge. The key section of the route is passed. Time 20:30. We decide to stop. The overnight stay is sitting. At 21:00 we settled for a bivouac.

15.07.81. At 08:00 we continue the route. Having passed a 70 m wall, we exit onto a ridge, along which we pass to the second bastion. First along the rocks, then we cross a steep, icy couloir (“crampons needed!”) along an internal corner, we exit onto the Northeast ridge. The ridge is heavily snowed, but there are no eaves. We quickly exit along it onto the East ridge. Here the snow-ice situation is much more complicated, movements slow down, the snow is very bad, protection was mostly organized on rock outcrops. We move very cautiously.

At 20:00 we reached the summit. The descent to the South along a wide, then narrowing couloir to the Glacier took us 1 hour 10 minutes.

Table of main characteristics of the route to p. Koltsova Main, along the East face, 2nd ascent (approximately 5B category of difficulty)

SECTION 5.