п. Дружбы 5196
When choosing the route, safe approaches to it were studied, and reconnaissance of the approach was carried out. Since the ridge is a smooth monolithic rock, alternating with heavily destroyed ones, we took several large loops (Ø up to 1 m) to organize insurance points by throwing them on very large ledges, which justified itself very well. And also full sets of nuts and "friends" were taken, which is irreplaceable on such relief.
The complexity of the relief made it necessary to rely on the work of the first participant without a backpack. The remaining participants climbed up the ropes with top rope. To provide the leader with pitons and nuts, the second participant cleaned the route from pitons as much as possible. On easy sections of the route, the first participant went with a light backpack.
By the end of the first day of the route, it started raining with snow, so in the morning of the second day everything was covered with a small layer of snow. On the first overnight stay on a rubble inclined shelf, ropes were organized, fixed on ice screws that passed through the tent. All participants spent the night in harnesses and on self-arrest.
Observers (MS Boyko V., CMS Lebedev M., doctor Valikov E.) were staying overnight near the glacier, from where the route was almost entirely visible. Regular radio communication (at least 2 times a day) was maintained with groups in the Gaumysh gorge and through them with the base camp in the Alaudin gorge.
| Section | Cat. diff. | Length (m) | Steepness |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 4 | 120 | 50° |
| 2 | 4 | 40 | 65° |
| 3 | 4 | 110 | 60° |
| 4 | 4+ | 40 | 65° |
| 5 | 5 | 40 | 75° |
| 6 | 6 | 20 | 90° |
| 7 | 6 | 15 | 90° |
| 8 | 5 | 25 | 75° |
| 9 | 5 | 75 | 75° |
| 10 | 6 | 35 | 90° |
| 11 | 5 | 150 | 75° |
| 12 | 5 | 150 | 80° |
| 13 | 5 | 75 | 75° |
| 14 | 5 | 40 | 75° |
| 15 | 5 | 85 | 80° |
| 16 | 5 | 65 | 70° |
| 17 | 6 | 35 | 90° |
| 18 | 4 | 80 | 70° |
| 19 | 4 | 80 | 75° |
| 20 | 5 | 15 | 85° |
| 21 | 3 | 40 | 50° |
| 22 | 6 | 35 | 90° |
| 23 | 6 | 35 | 90° |
| 24 | 5 | 40 | 75° |
| 25 | 5 | 180 | 75° |
| 26 | 5 | 20 | 85° |
| 27 | 4–5 | 80 | 75° |
| 28 | 4 | 30 | 45° |
| 29 | 2 | 250 | 30° |
| 30 | 5 | 320 | 70–80° |
| 31 | 2 | 250 | 25° |
| 32 | 4–5 | 80 | 75° |
| 33 | 5 | 25 | 80° |
| 34 | 4 | 40 | 45° |
| 35 | 5 | 40 | 80° |
| 36 | 3 | 500 | 50° |
| п. im. Podolskikh Kursantov | 3–4 | 700 | 45–55° |
| 38 | 5 | 15 | 90° |
| 39 | 5 | 80 | 75° |
| 40 | 5 | 40 | 75° |
| 41 | 4+ | 40 | 70° |
| 42 | 5 | 40 | 75° |
| п. Noginsky | 3 | 30 | 50° |
| 44 | 2 | 500 | 30° |
| 45 | 5 | 70 | 75° |
| 46 | 5 | 20 | 85° |
| п. Kichik-Aylama | 3 | 25 | 35° |
Route Description by Sections
Section 1. Ice couloir. It is best to pass early in the morning due to possible rockfall.
Section 5. Steep smooth rocks. Insurance is difficult. There are areas with loose rocks.
Section 6. Icy inner corner, which was passed using aid climbing.
Section 7. Chimney with overhang. Heavily destroyed. Many loose large rocks. Rockfall hazard. Insurance:
- "friends"
- nuts
Section 8. Icy couloir. Pass very carefully. Insurance possible on ice screws.
Section 9. Beginning of movement on steep smooth rocks with ice, then up the crevice. "Friends" were used for insurance.
Section 10. Difficult traverse into the ice couloir.
Section 11. Ice couloir should be passed along the right edge, along the rocks. Rocks may fall down the couloir.
Section 12. Heavily iced rocks. Many loose rocks. There are also steep smooth "ram's foreheads". Very slippery. There is a risk of knocking rocks with the rope. Insurance:
- "friends"
- nuts
- ice screws
1st overnight stay is sitting. It is more correct to spend the night either after section 11 or after section 15.
Section 13. Ice couloir with very hard ice, covered with a small layer of snow (due to bad weather at the end of the first day). Almost vertical at the top. Rocks may fall down the couloir.
Section 14. Icy rocks. Many loose rocks.
Section 15. Ice couloir with very hard ice. Vertical at the top. After 9:00 am, rocks start to fall, which the group observed, being on the rubble shelf to the right of the couloir. Control tour.
Section 17. Icy chimney. Rocks are smooth. Few holds, all sloping. Passed on friction and with the use of aid climbing, in rock shoes.
Sections 20-21. Movement takes place on very large rocks, which are overcome directly. To the left - cornices.
Section 22. Up the "ram's foreheads" with ice. Insurance is very difficult. Few holds. Pass very carefully.
Section 23. Heavily icy chimney. Very similar to section 17. Passed on friction and with the use of aid climbing.
Section 25. Steep ice ridge. At the top covered with a thick layer of firn. Therefore, it was necessary to dig to the ice. To the left are cornices. Do not approach the edge of the ridge closely.
Section 28. The ridge leads directly to the icefall, which hangs on the eastern side of the northern ridge of п. Дружбы. There is no passage to the right along the glacier. Therefore, they passed directly up the icefall. To avoid collapse, pass as quickly as possible.
Section 30. Steep ice ascent to the saddle in the ridge. Cornice collapses are possible. The group passed in the place where the cornice had already collapsed. 3rd overnight stay on the saddle.
Section 33. Steep ice slope, especially at the top, leading to the summit.
Section 38. Small rock wall leading directly to the ridge.
Sections 39-40. Steep ice slope, over which a large snow-ice cornice hangs. There is an option to bypass the cornice to the left on steep ice. We went to the right to the rock counterfort.
Section 42. Steep ice couloir leading to the pre-summit rocks. Rockfall hazard.
Section 44. To the right - cornices. Do not approach the right edge closely.
Section 45. Crevice, partially icy and covered with snow.
The descent from the summit of п. Кичик-Айлама to the п. Семинаристов is a steep ice slope, partially covered with a thick layer of firn. Approximately 550–600 m.
