Zhestar (4200 m)

Ascent via the Eastern Ridge — Category 1B difficulty

The Zhestar peak is located in the Kargalinsky spur system, which stretches for up to 20 km in a north-northeast direction from the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, and serves as a watershed between the valleys of the Kargalinka and Prokhodnaya rivers. The route begins from the Prokhodnoye gorge. Passing by the Alma-Arasan resort and the coniferous forest zone, head upwards towards the Prokhodny Pass. Before reaching it, turn west. From here, the Zhestar peak comes into view. Its southern side is rocky, while the northern slopes are snow-covered. Approach the base of the peak along the southeastern ridge, traversing the moraine of the Bezymanny Glacier. Continue along the talus, slightly to the right, between the southeastern and northeastern ridges without ascending to the ridge. Staying close to the southeastern ridge, overcome a steep, rockfall-prone couloir, then ascend to the eastern ridge and proceed along it to the base of the summit tower. The ascent from the southern side follows a faintly defined couloir. Descend via the ascent route or along the northern ridge. The climb takes 6–7 hours. The first ascent was made in 1951 by Alma-Ata climbers A. Maryashev and S. Kuderin.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. The number of participants is not limited.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Bezymanny Glacier.

Ascent to the summit "Enbek"

The altitude above sea level according to the altimeter is 3920 m. The summit is located in the Dzungarian Alatau, in its Main northern ridge. It is situated in the gorge of the Karasai river, a tributary of Aksu, in the left spur of the Main ridge. From the northeast - an ice wall that starts from the glacier and ends on the summit ridge. Steepness is 45–50° and from the east and southeast - destroyed rocks, partially covered with snow. From the south - a rocky ridge. To the west - a large scree, which ends in rocks at the bottom. Departure at 6:00. The path is in the Karasai river gorge. Exit to the "Enbek" pass via scree at 9:00. Further - along the ridge to the south. To the left - an ice wall, to the right - a frozen scree. Movement is exactly along the ridge. Three ascents are overcome. Before the fourth ascent - an ice couloir, which descends to the west to the Koksai river valley. The ascent is icy. Crampons and insurance via an ice axe. The length of the steep part of the ascent is 50–60 m, with three pitons hammered into it. Steepness is 45–50°. Further path is along the ridge of frozen rocks. On the summit at 12:00. Return to the west via scree with exit to the couloir. Descent to the Koksai valley at 15:00 (descent took 2 hours). To the base camp at 18:00. The weather is cold with wind, continuous cloud cover. The ascent was made on September 15, 1963, as part of the group:

• KONDRATYEV - leader - CMS
• GATSUTS - III sports category

Ascent to the summit "Karaganda"

The geodetic height is 4014 m. The summit is located in the Dzungarian Alatau, in its Main Northern ridge. It is situated in the main ridge near the Demekpe pass. A glacier descends from the summit to the north. Its upper part is gentle, but the steepness increases significantly towards the bottom. The north-eastern side is a continuous glacier, which is part of an ice cirque. To the south lies a rocky scree. From the west, there are scree slopes and rocks of moderate difficulty before the summit. Departure at 8:30. At the Demekpe pass by 11:00. From here, the path to the summit begins - eastward along the scree. We reach the ridge. A glacier descends from it to the north, and a snowy-ice cornice to the south. We pass the cornice on the left along the glacier, roped and in crampons. We reach rocks of moderate difficulty. The rocks are covered with snow and ice. Movement with alternating belay. The rock section is about 100 m high, with a steepness of 50–70°. At the summit by 13:00. Descent to the north along easy slopes for 100 m. We cross the glacier to the west and join the ascent route. Further descent follows the ascent path. Base camp by 17:30. The weather during the ascent was very poor. Visibility sometimes disappeared completely. Strong cold wind. Fog. The ascent was made on September 16, 1963. The group consisted of:

Ascent to the summit of "Karatau"

The altitude above sea level according to the altimeter is 3800 m. The summit is located in the Dzungarian Alatau, in its Main Northern ridge. It is situated in the gorge of the Karasai river, a tributary of Aksu, in the left spur of the Main ridge. To the northeast is a rocky wall 50°–70° with a height of 300–400 m, cut by couloirs, from which a rocky ridge leads to the summit. To the east are rocks with scree, and before the summit, there is a rocky wall 60°–80° with a height of 100–200 m. To the west and south is a large scree representing destroyed rocks. Departure at 6:00 from the base camp at 2650 m on the bank of Aksu. The path is in the gorge of the Kar-Sai river. The exit to the very summit is in the northeastern wall. Through a couloir with scree, the path goes west to the ridge of the spur. At the snowpatch, there is a turn to the south. This bypasses the northeastern wall. Further, the path goes along the snowy scree and exits to a large icy scree representing destroyed rocks. Movement along it is slow and tense. Further, a rocky ridge of about a hundred meters is passed in rope teams. The second group reaches the summit at 13:00. Descent to the south, to the "Enbek" pass. From it, the descent is onto scree in the Kar-Sai gorge onto the glacier. Return to the base camp at 17:00. The weather during the ascent was sunny, but at times a cold wind blew. The ascent was made on September 14, 1963, by 12 people led by NAIMAN (1st sports category) and KONDRATYEV (2nd sports category). The remaining participants had the III sports category and the "Alpinist of the USSR" badge. The presumed degree of difficulty is 1B.

Ascent Passport

1. North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Malo-Almatinsky spur
2. Peak Abay (4010 m), via the Western slope couloir and the Northern ridge
3. Category 2A difficulty level
4. Route type — rocky
5. Route elevation gain — 1110 m Route length — 2255 m Length of sections: Category V difficulty — none Average steepness:

• main part of the route (sections 8–10) — 55 degrees

Abaya, 1B category via North-West ridge

Route description.

A good trail leads from Tuyuksu alpine camp eastwards through an ancient moraine and further to the spring. From the spring one should head to the moraine along medium and large talus to Abaya glacier. R0 point. From here the path to the summit passes along the glacier to the foot of the summit. Further:

• Turn towards North-West ridge.
• Ascend to the ridge along talus and snow to a characteristic saddle.
• From the saddle follow a combined ridge with alternating belay to the foot of the summit tower.
• Traverse the tower along the path on the left, on snow, to the North-East ridge.
• Further, along the loose rocks with alternating belay on the eastern side —

ASCENT LOG

1. North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Malo-Almatinsky spur
2. Peak Abay (4010 m), South Ridge
3. Cat. 1B diff.
4. Route type — rocky
5. Route elevation gain — 70 m. Route length — 550 m. Length of sections: Cat. V diff. — none. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route (sections R9–R11, R16) — 75°
   • entire route — 30°

Route Description

The approach to the route is from the middle part of the Malo-Almatinsky gorge. Turn from the "Vорота Tuyuk-Su" alpine camp into the Chertovo gorge and organize the initial bivouac among the ancient moraine ridges. The ascent begins on the right lateral moraine. Reach the Abay glacier, traverse it towards the rocks. At the foot of the rocks, organize rope teams. Further ascent is from the left side of the rock massif on snow. The slope steepness is not more than 25–30°. After 60–70 m, there is a passage in the rocks, through which you can cross to the right side of the rock massif. Here, the steepness of the snow slope increases to 35–40°, and the ascent goes straight up to the foot of the summit rock tower. This section (450–500 m) is overcome with thorough belaying. The ascent and descent on it must be done before the sun illuminates the slope and softens the snow. Upon reaching the foot of the tower, turn north and after 30–40 m of easy rock climbing, approach a couloir with a steepness of 35–40°. At the end of the season, it can be icy, and step cutting is necessary. After 25–30 m, turn left towards the rocks and ascend to the tower of the north summit with thorough belaying. This is the main summit of Peak Abay. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 6–7 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants: not more than 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac — moraine of the Abay glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 4 am.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

Ascent to the Akgyul summit via the Uraltsev pass, route 2А cat. diff. (fig. 24, 24a). The Akgyul summit is located in the northern part of the Issykteng — Chokhu spur. Route:

• From the Talgar mountaineering camp
• Through the Zelyonaya Polyana
• To the Uraltsev pass Features:
• In the area of the Uraltsev pass, there are many crevasses on the Shokalsky glacier (be careful!)
• A bivouac can be set up on the Uraltsev pass From the Uraltsev pass, go along the main ridge, then turn southeast onto the Issykteng — Chokhu spur.

White Peak (4700 m)

Ascent to the White Peak summit via Akgyul peak, route 2B cat. diff.

From the Talgar alpine camp through Surovyy pass to the right branch of the Korzhenevskogo glacier. Here, overnight stay. The path to the White Peak summit goes through Akgyul peak. From the overnight stay, go to the main ridge via scree. Reach the junction of the ridge with the Issykten-Chokhu spur, turn onto it and along the ridge of the spur approach the foot of Akgyul's summit dome. The ridge has several drops. To the right are ruined rocks. A snowy slope with a steepness of up to 35° leads to the summit dome. Alternate insurance is needed, and at the end of the season, when ice appears, the use of ice screws is possible (2-3 hooks). From Akgyul peak, the path goes along the ridge in a southeast direction, then along a snow-ice slope with a steepness of 40-45° and a length of up to 300 m. Crampons and screw insurance are needed. The slope leads to a saddle between Akgyul and White Peak. From the saddle, along a snow-ice ridge with a length of up to 2.5 km. Crevasses are encountered. Insurance is needed. In 2-2.5 hours, the foot of White Peak is reached. The ascent to the summit is along a snowy slope up to 30°. To the left are snowdrifts and cornices. Deviate to the right. In an hour, the summit is reached. A cairn is on the rocks. Descent is via the ascent route. The entire ascent from the bivouac takes 8-10 hours. Return to the camp via Surovyy pass.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants - up to 25 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the right branch of the Korzhenevskogo glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac no later than 5:00.