Ascent to the Akgyul summit via the Uraltsev pass, route 2А cat. diff. (fig. 24, 24a).

The Akgyul summit is located in the northern part of the Issykteng — Chokhu spur.

Route:

• From the Talgar mountaineering camp
• Through the Zelyonaya Polyana
• To the Uraltsev pass

Features:

• In the area of the Uraltsev pass, there are many crevasses on the Shokalsky glacier (be careful!)
• A bivouac can be set up on the Uraltsev pass

From the Uraltsev pass, go along the main ridge, then turn southeast onto the Issykteng — Chokhu spur.

Moving along it, approach the foot of the summit dome.

The description of the remaining part of the route is given in the section on ascending to the Belый Pik summit via the Akgyul summit.

From the bivouac to the summit and back takes 4–5 hours of walking. Returning to the camp via the already known path takes another 5–6 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. The number of participants should not exceed 25 people.
2. Initial bivouac at the Uraltsev pass.
3. Departure from the bivouac no later than 6:00.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) 2 × 30 m main ropes; b) 5 ice axes; c) 2 hammers; d) 5 carabiners.

Issykteng — Chokhu

Fig. 24