White Peak (4700 m)
Ascent to the White Peak summit via Akgyul peak, route 2B cat. diff.
From the Talgar alpine camp through Surovyy pass to the right branch of the Korzhenevskogo glacier. Here, overnight stay. The path to the White Peak summit goes through Akgyul peak. From the overnight stay, go to the main ridge via scree. Reach the junction of the ridge with the Issykten-Chokhu spur, turn onto it and along the ridge of the spur approach the foot of Akgyul's summit dome. The ridge has several drops. To the right are ruined rocks. A snowy slope with a steepness of up to 35° leads to the summit dome. Alternate insurance is needed, and at the end of the season, when ice appears, the use of ice screws is possible (2-3 hooks).
From Akgyul peak, the path goes along the ridge in a southeast direction, then along a snow-ice slope with a steepness of 40-45° and a length of up to 300 m. Crampons and screw insurance are needed. The slope leads to a saddle between Akgyul and White Peak.
From the saddle, along a snow-ice ridge with a length of up to 2.5 km. Crevasses are encountered. Insurance is needed. In 2-2.5 hours, the foot of White Peak is reached.
The ascent to the summit is along a snowy slope up to 30°. To the left are snowdrifts and cornices. Deviate to the right. In an hour, the summit is reached. A cairn is on the rocks. Descent is via the ascent route. The entire ascent from the bivouac takes 8-10 hours. Return to the camp via Surovyy pass.
Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants - up to 25 people.
- Initial bivouac on the right branch of the Korzhenevskogo glacier.
- Departure from the bivouac no later than 5:00.
- Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main ropes 2 × 30 m; b) ice screws 45 pcs.; c) hammers 2 pcs.; d) carabiners 4 pcs.