PASSPORT

1. Winter class.
2. Tian-Shan, Ak-Sai valley.
3. p. S. Korea 4740 via the gully left of the "triangle" from the S side. 4.55 cat. of difficulty, 2nd ascent of Barber's route.
4. Height difference — 740 m, length — 920 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. of difficulty — 560 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 58° (4000–4740 m). Of which:

• 6 cat. of difficulty — 90° (3342–3402 m).

6. Number of pitons: Ice screws — 69 pcs. Climbing hours — 11.5 hours and days — 1 day.
7. No overnight stays.

Climbing Passport

1. Category — technical
2. Tian-Shan, Aksai gorge
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea via the right part of the northern wall
4. Assumed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Height difference 970 m, length — 1200 m, length of the wall part of the route — 1080 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 560 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 70°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 38, bolt — 0, chocks — 12/0, ice screws — 53/0
7. Climbing days (not including descent) — 1, hours — 17
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — one, on descent, on a gentle scree ridge
9. Leader — Artamonov Alexey Vladimirovich — Candidate Master of Sports

Free Korea. North Face (first ascent). 1999 approx. 6A category. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range.

Passport

1. Winter category.
2. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
3. Peak Free Korea. North Face. 4740 m.
4. Route 6A category (approx.) first ascent.
5. Height difference of the route: 640 m (bergschrund 4100 – summit 4740). Route length 845 m.
6. Length of the central part 285 m.

MINISTRY OF SPORT TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY SPORTS FEDERATION OF ALPINISM

Championship of Russia

2013 year Class of altitude-technical ascents

Report

Combined team of Krasnoyarsk Territory Peak Svobodnoy Korei 4777 m via north wall Semiletkin's route 1988 6A cat. dif., winter ascent Krasnoyarsk 2013

Passport of the ascent

1. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, 7.4.

St. Petersburg Federation of Alpinism, Rock Climbing, and Ice Climbing

2015 Russian Championship

Ice and Snow Class, Correspondence Entry

Report

St. Petersburg National Team Peak Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m, via North Face Semiletkin Route, 1988, Category 6A Winter Ascent St. Petersburg 2015

Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — winter
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai gorge
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea (4740 m), direct route up the N wall
4. Category 6A difficulty. First ascent.
5. Height difference — 890 m. Distance — 910 m. Length of category 6 sections — 180 m. Average slope of the wall — 68°
6. Number of pitons left on the route — x
7. Number of climbing hours/days — 30.5/5
8. Bivouacs 1–4 in a platform-tent on the wall,

Ascent Passport

1. North Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge
2. Peak name: Svobodnaya Korea, route name North wall, Ruchkin S. route
3. Proposed - 6A cat. diff. Third ascent
4. Route type: combined
5. Route height difference – 780 m (3960–4740) Route length – 895 m Length of sections:
   • 5 cat. diff. – 385 m
   • 6 cat. diff. – 121 m

Passport

1. Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
2. Peak Svobodnoy Korei, 4740, via the cascades of the central part of the North face (Ruchkin's Route, 1997).
3. 6A category of difficulty, 2nd ascent.
4. Combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 800 m Route length: 910 m Length of sections: 5th category of difficulty — 540 m 6th category of difficulty — 165 m

Russian Championship 2021

Ice and Snow Ascent Category

Report

Combined team of Nizhny Novgorod and Novosibirsk Pik Svobodnoy Korei 4777 m via north wall, Ruchkin's route 2001, 6A category, winter ascent

Climbing Passport

1. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, 7.4.
2. Peak — Svobodnaya Korea, 4777 m via North wall, A. Ruchkin 2001.
3. Category — 6A.

Fig. 1. As­cent to p. Svobod­naya Ko­rea (gen­eral view)