Bogatyr (4616 m)

1. Ascent to the North summit from the north.
2. Traverse of the Bogatyr — Kolesnik (4510 m) peaks from north to south. Ascent to the North summit from the north, category 3B route (fig. 11). The massif of Bogatyr peaks is located in the main ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau, in the upper reaches of the central branch of the same-name glacier, approaching it from the east. The northern and northwestern slopes of the massif descend towards the Pioner glacier, flowing into the Left Talgar valley. The entire massif is snow-ice, with rocks only in the uppermost part. The massif has three peaks:

• North — 4570 m

Fig. 11

Traverse of the peaks Bogatyr - Kolesnik, 3B cat. route The beginning of the route to the North summit of Bogatyr is given in the previous description. Descent from the North summit of Bogatyr in the southern direction along the icy slope with a steepness of up to 60°, with two drops, bypassing the first gendarme on the left. The next two gendarmes are overcome head-on with alternating belay. Loss of height is up to 200 m.

Move on to the snowy saddle between the North and main peaks of Bogatyry. The route goes along the rocks on the saddle itself. There are cornices on the eastern side (be careful!). To overcome the fourth gendarme, one should drive ice screws into the snowy slope and stretch the handrail. The fifth gendarme is overcome head-on with cutting steps on the icy slope with a steepness up to 70° when approaching its constituent rocks. The rocks are of medium difficulty and are overcome with belay. Descent from the gendarme to a small dent, then to the pre-summit rocks. The rocks of medium difficulty lead to the main peak of Bogatyry. The ascent to the summit itself goes along the snowy slope with a steepness of up to 60° (with running belay). The descent from the main peak goes along the snowy slope with several drops. A gendarme blocking the path is overcome head-on; the rocks are of medium difficulty. Then, the path leads to the saddle between the Central and South peaks of Bogatyry. The ascent to the South peak of Bogatyry goes along the snowy slope with a steepness of up to 45°, and the descent from it goes along the snowy slope no steeper than 40°. The descent leads to the saddle between the South peak of Bogatyry and the peak of Kolesnik, the last object of the traverse route. The peak of Kolesnik is an ice dome, above which three groups of rocks rise. The middle group is the summit. The route to the summit presents no particular difficulties. From the saddle, the ascent to the summit begins with a 100-meter snowy slope (sometimes with aufeis). Further on:

• there are easy and medium rocks of the southwestern ridge
• further to the east, there is a second rocky ridge, which is the highest point of the summit.

Approved by Climbing and Tactics Committee, Protocol #3 dated March 15, 1961 Complexity category: 3A+1

Route Description to the Summit of VSEVOBUCH

The path from the "Talgar" camp goes up the gorge, through the Zelyonaya Polyana and the Burovoy Pass. It takes 7 hours to walk from the camp to the foot of the Burovoy Pass. The ascent to the pass goes along a couloir. After the pass, one should bypass the TUVVO peak from the right and descend to the southeastern branch of the Korzhenevsky Glacier. The route goes through snow and talus. There is a platform convenient for a bivouac at the lower part of the moraine. The night stay is organized here. From the bivouac site, cross the glacier and reach the foot of the VSEVOBUCH peak in 30–50 minutes. It is necessary to move across the glacier in rope teams (due to crevasses along the way). The ascent to the summit starts along a firn slope with a steepness of up to 35–40°, and a length of about 150 m. Then the slope steepness increases to 60–70° and continues for up to 70 m. After this section, the slope gradually becomes less steep, down to 35–40°. Next, one needs to reach a rocky outcrop (see diagram) via a steep ice slope with a steepness of up to 60°. Movement is done with alternate belay using the front teeth of crampons. Four ice screws were driven in up to the first rocky outcrop where the first control cairn is built. The further path goes along a firn-ice slope, about 100 m long, with a steepness of up to 30–40°, with belay using ice screws and rock outcrops. While ascending the slope, move to the right side of the ridge, before a clearly visible gendarme. Then continue ascending along the ice slope with a steepness of up to 40°, along the rocky ridge, leaving it on the left. Belay is done using ice screws.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock.
2. Ascent area, ridge: North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Geroyev Panfilovtsev, 4020 m, via the western ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 165 m; route length — 480 m; sections 5–6 cat. diff. are absent; average steepness — 20°.
6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — 3, ice and bolt pitons were not used.
7. Number of travel hours: 4 h 40 min.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: there are no overnight stays on the route.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualifications:

Gigan (4250 m). Ascent via the Eastern Ridge — Category 1B (fig. 5)

Gigan peak is located in the Kargalinsky spur system in a northwesterly direction from Zheshtar peak and is connected to it by a ridge. To the east, a ridge with Oktyabr peak (4140 m) extends from it. Its northern side is snow-covered, while the southern side has rocky, heavily eroded ridges descending from it, separated by couloirs filled with large, loose scree resting on a steep base. Fig. 5. Approaches to the summit from the Prohodnoye gorge. Bypassing the Alma-Arasan resort and the forest zone, turn west and move along the moraine of the unnamed glacier, leaving the eastern ridge of Zheshtar peak to the left, and reach the glacier. Before reaching the ridge connecting Zheshtar and Gigan peaks, start ascending from the southern side via one of the couloirs that leads to the eastern ridge. Then, proceed along the rocks, which do not present technical difficulties, to reach the summit. The summit is a narrow, eroded ridge. Descent is possible via the ascent route. It is also possible to descend northward along the ridge towards the Kargalinskoye gorge. The ascent takes 7–8 hours. The first ascent was made in 1951 by Almaty climbers:

• A. Lukhtanov
• A. Maryashev

Recommendations for Climbers

GTO­ — Karatau

Traverse of the peaks GTO­ — Kolokolnikova­ — Karatau, route category 2B (Fig. 53). The approach path from the Talgar alpine camp is described in the ascent route to GTO peak. The description of the first part of the traverse — ascent to the peaks GTO and Kolokolnikova­ — is given in the corresponding descriptions of ascents to these peaks. From Kolokolnikova peak to the southeast to Karatau peak. This section of the route abounds with "zhandarms" made of rocks of medium difficulty. All of them are overcome head-on, as detour is associated with a large loss of height. The ridge throughout its entire length is technically not difficult, but is heavily destroyed and requires great caution in movement

Fig. 53

20 Years of KazGMI (4089 m)

Ascent via the Northwest Ridge — Category 2A complexity

The peak 20 Years of KazGMI, named in honor of the twentieth anniversary of the Kazakh Institute of Mining and Metallurgy (now known as the Kazakh Polytechnic Institute named after V.I. Lenin), is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau within the Sredny Aksai glacial cirque. To its southwest lies the peak Promezhutochnaya, while to the north, a small ridge descends, separating the left and right branches of the Aksai glacier. The southern slopes of the peak are the source of the right tributary of the Almaty river, which is one of the tributaries of the Chong-Kemin river. Approaches to the peak should be made from the upper reaches of Sredny Aksai. The initial bivouac is best set up on a small, almost horizontal site with steep edges. The moraine of the Right Aksai glacier also reaches this location. A stream runs between the edge and the moraine. From this vantage point, the glacier lying in the upper reaches of Sredny Aksai is clearly visible. From the bivouac, proceed along the edge to the east until you find a suitable spot to descend onto the right branch of the Aksai glacier. Cross it and reach the lateral moraine at the point where the depression between the moraine and the northwest ridge of the peak is clearly visible. It takes about 1 hour from the bivouac.