Abaya, 1B category via North-West ridge
Route description.
A good trail leads from Tuyuksu alpine camp eastwards through an ancient moraine and further to the spring. From the spring one should head to the moraine along medium and large talus to Abaya glacier. R0 point.
From here the path to the summit passes along the glacier to the foot of the summit. Further:
- Turn towards North-West ridge.
- Ascend to the ridge along talus and snow to a characteristic saddle.
- From the saddle follow a combined ridge with alternating belay to the foot of the summit tower.
- Traverse the tower along the path on the left, on snow, to the North-East ridge.
- Further, along the loose rocks with alternating belay on the eastern side — exit to the summit.
Descent from the summit is done via the ascent route. The first ascent to the summit was made by a group of climbers from Alma-Ata in 1939, consisting of six people led by G. Beloglazov in 1933.
Recommendations:
- Number of participants: unlimited.
- Initial bivouac — Tuyuksu alpine camp or Abaya glacier.
- Departure from bivouac at 5:00.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people:
- main rope 2 × 40 m
- rock pitons — 2 pcs
- crampons — 1 pair
- hammer — 1
pcs.
·
Author: B. Zhunusov
Source: Book "Climbing routes. Trans-Ili Alatau". Part 1
From mountain.kz website
