Route Description

From the Tuyuksu alpine camp, move towards the Mynzhilki weather station. After crossing the dam, turn east along the steep slope of the moraine and ascend to the bivouac of Alpingrad. From the main bivouac on the Alpengrad site, head towards the foot of the large couloir on the western side of the peak. The beginning of the approach to the route coincides with the route to Amangeldy from the West, category 1B. When entering the narrow couloir on the 1B route, it is necessary to traverse sharply to the left and exit onto the wide talus slope leading to the base of the northwest edge of the summit tower. The approach to the base of the summit tower abuts a steep wall 10-12 m high, which is passed by free climbing. The wall leads to the C-3 ridge, then:

• Turn right
• Pass along the rocky ridge with minor difficulty
• Reach the summit Descent is via the Southwest ridge, following the 1B route category. The ascent from the Tuyuksu alpine camp takes around 7-8 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants: not limited.

Ascent Log.

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Trans-Ili Alatau, Tian Shan.
3. Ascent route — Peak Amangeldy, 4100 m from the north.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A.
5. Ascent characteristics:
   1. Elevation gain — 500 m.
   2. Average steepness — 54°.
   3. Length of complex section — 155 m.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 25 pcs.

Route Description

From the Mynzhilki weather station, ascend to Alpingrad. The traverse begins with peak Amangeldy 1B from the West (see description of Amangeldy 1B from the West). After the summit, descend in the eastern direction towards Pionerisky Pass via the 2B category route. From Pionerisky Pass, ascend to peak Pioner via the 1B category route. Then move south towards the summit of Uchitel (see description of the traverse Uchitel - Pioner 3A). From the summit of Uchitel, descend east via the 2A category route to peak Uchitel until the Heroes of Panfilov Pass. Ascend to peak Heroes of Panfilov via the 2B category route along the western ridge (see description). Descend towards Mametova Pass. From Mametova Pass, follow the route to Manshuk Mametova via the northern ridge 3B category until the summit (see description). Descend via the 2A category route from the M. Mametova glacier. Then descend to Alpengrad. Completed by a group led by T. Lebedev in 1999.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants - 6-8 people.
2. Initial bivouac - Alpengrad.

Antikainen (4000 m)

Ascent via the southern ridge — Cat. 1B

The summit of Antikainen is located on the main ridge of the Malo-Almatinsky spur between the summits of Otechestvennoy Voyny and Manshuk Mametova. From the Mynzhilki weather station, cross the Malaya Almatinka river and, bypassing the ancient moraines of the Manshuk Mametova glacier, then the western ridge of Antikainen, move along its foot, gradually gaining altitude. Ascend via the lateral moraine of the Mayakovsky glacier to the last couloir on the southern slope of the western ridge. Ascend the couloir to its fork and continue along the right branch. Further ascent is via heavily broken rocks and scree, keeping to the left side of the couloir (be cautious!). Upon reaching the black scree at the junction of the western lateral ridge and the main ridge, traverse it and reach the main ridge. The summit of Antikainen rises 6–7 m above the ridge in the form of a pointed tower, with a cairn on it. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 6–7 hours. The first ascent to the summit was made on July 7, 1940, by a group of Almaty climbers led by I. Mezdrikov.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants is not limited.
2. Initial bivouac is in the area of the Mynzhilki weather station.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5–6 a.m.

Route Description

The most convenient approach to the start of the route is via the Mametova Pass with a descent to the Byrdjiga Glacier. Here, on the moraine, the initial bivouac is set up. The exit to the route is in the lower part of the Byrdjiga Glacier. A long couloir, from the base of which the sharp peaks of the Aristov Peak are visible. Along a wide couloir that narrows sharply at the upper part, approach the so-called "gates" R1. Then straight up the walls, 1015 m with good ledges for belay stations, ascend to the eastern ridge under the summit tower. The summit tower is 2 steep walls up to 80° with small inclined ledges at the top. Then exit to the summit. Descent from the summit tower along the eastern wall on a rope (twice 40 m):

• First descent to an intermediate platform
• Second descent to the base of the tower From here, descend along the couloir with scree to the Byrdjiga Glacier to the initial bivouac. The ascent takes 8–9 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants — 4–6 people.

Description of Aristov's route cat. diff. from the west

The most convenient approach to the start of the route is through the Mametova pass with a descent to the Byrdjiga glacier. Here, on the moraine, the initial bivouac is set up. The exit to the route is in the direction of the Aristov pass - a pronounced lowering between the Karlytau peak and the beginning of the ridge of the Aristov peak. From the Aristov pass, a straightforward ridge with two gendarmes follows, which are bypassed on the right via not steep snow shelves. Then, one should approach the summit tower and exit to the saddle via a snow couloir. Descent from the summit tower along the eastern wall on a rope (twice at 40 m):

• First - descent to an intermediate platform
• Second - to the foot of the tower From here, a descent along the couloir with scree to the Byrdjiga glacier to the initial bivouac. The ascent takes 8-9 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants - 4-6 people.

Route Description

The approach to the start of the route is made via the Bogdanovich Glacier to the Komсомольский Pass. In the pass area, there is a starting bivouac. From it, the ascent begins along the northern ridge for 300 m towards the peak of Карлытау. At the very beginning, the ridge is gentle but icy; closer to the peak, the steepness increases to 35°. Here, one should descend to the ridge of the Aristov peak into a lowering referred to as the Aristov Pass. From the Aristov Pass, there is a straightforward ridge with two gendarmes, which are bypassed on the right via not very steep snowy ledges. Then, one should approach the summit pinnacle and exit to a saddle via a snowy couloir. The descent is made via the ascent route. The ascent takes 9–10 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants: 4–6 people.
2. Starting bivouac: in the area of Komсомольский Pass.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00 AM.
4. Equipment for a group of 4:

Route Description

Peak Aristova, named after one of the first Soviet climbers — Oleg Aristov, — is a rocky tooth and towers rising above the lateral ridge, which branches off from the Malo-Almatinsky spur at the location of the Karlytau peak. From there, the ridge stretches east-southeast for about 4 km, dividing the lateral valleys of the glaciers:

• Aristova
• Byrdzhiga. The initial bivouac is on the Aristova glacier plateau. The exit to the route should be no later than four hours, on a slope with a steepness of 55–60°. The ascent goes straight, a little south of a small group of rocks descending from the summit ridge. Deep snow cover:
• Creates convenience for ascending on beaten steps with insurance through an ice axe.
• Is avalanche-prone.

Peak Asker (3350 m), via the spur on the right side of the Western slope, category 2A The approach to the mountain is described in the section on route category 1B. Immediately upon entering the rocky narrowing of the couloir before the summit, turn right onto a grassy ledge. Reach the ridge and proceed along it with simultaneous belay. A bastion on the rib 90 m along the route is bypassed as follows:

• Via a ledge on the left
• Through simple rock walls Further:
• Scree
• Exit onto route category 1B via a short rock wall
• Ascend the couloir to the ridge

Peak Asker, "Avalon" (100 m, 70′, 6a+), K. Belotserkovsky, 2010

R0–R1. Twenty meters up easy rocks to a large rock spall. Station on a juniper bush. R1–R2. Up and right to a large slab with two parallel cracks. Climb the first one. The crack gets narrower in the upper part, but the slope is gentle, so in dry weather it won't be a problem. Then, using the internal dihedral and belaying on its left wall, get over a small ledge (the crux of the route). Station on three pitons, two of which are half-driven, three meters higher. R2–R4. Up and right along the edge. The first two protection points are juniper bushes. Then up along the edge to a ledge. A logical option was to go slightly left to a ledge that