Route Description
The most convenient approach to the start of the route is via the Mametova Pass with a descent to the Byrdjiga Glacier. Here, on the moraine, the initial bivouac is set up.
The exit to the route is in the lower part of the Byrdjiga Glacier. A long couloir, from the base of which the sharp peaks of the Aristov Peak are visible. Along a wide couloir that narrows sharply at the upper part, approach the so-called "gates" R1. Then straight up the walls, 1015 m with good ledges for belay stations, ascend to the eastern ridge under the summit tower. The summit tower is 2 steep walls up to 80° with small inclined ledges at the top. Then exit to the summit.
Descent from the summit tower along the eastern wall on a rope (twice 40 m):
- First descent to an intermediate platform
- Second descent to the base of the tower
From here, descend along the couloir with scree to the Byrdjiga Glacier to the initial bivouac. The ascent takes 8–9 hours.
Recommendations
- Number of participants — 4–6 people.
- Initial bivouac — on the Byrdjiga Glacier near the moraine lake.
- Departure from the bivouac at 5:00.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people:
- main rope — 2×40 m
- expendable cordelette — 12 m
- rock pitons — 7–8 pcs
- hammers — 2 pcs
(1)
3A cat. sl. along the S–E
wall
From the Mountain.kz website