Route Description

From the Tuyuksu alpine camp, move towards the Mynzhilki weather station. After crossing the dam, turn east along the steep slope of the moraine and ascend to the bivouac of Alpingrad.

From the main bivouac on the Alpengrad site, head towards the foot of the large couloir on the western side of the peak. The beginning of the approach to the route coincides with the route to Amangeldy from the West, category 1B. When entering the narrow couloir on the 1B route, it is necessary to traverse sharply to the left and exit onto the wide talus slope leading to the base of the northwest edge of the summit tower.

The approach to the base of the summit tower abuts a steep wall 10-12 m high, which is passed by free climbing. The wall leads to the C-3 ridge, then:

Turn right
Pass along the rocky ridge with minor difficulty
Reach the summit

Descent is via the Southwest ridge, following the 1B route category. The ascent from the Tuyuksu alpine camp takes around 7-8 hours.

Recommendations

Number of participants: not limited.
Initial bivouac — Alpengrad.
Departure from the bivouac at 6:00 AM.
Equipment for a group of 4 people:

main rope 2 × 40 m
rock pitons — 4 pcs
hammers — 2 pcs
carabiners — 4 pcs
ice axes (in winter)(1) 25 k.t. along the C-3 ridge (2) 15 k.t. from the 3rd to the couloir