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Route Description: кф. С склона
Description of the 2A category complexity route to Peak Asker (3350 m) via the western slope spur with recommendations for passage and belay.
Peak Asker (3350 m), via the spur on the right side of the Western slope, category 2A
The approach to the mountain is described in the section on route category 1B. Immediately upon entering the rocky narrowing of the couloir before the summit, turn right onto a grassy ledge. Reach the ridge and proceed along it with simultaneous belay.
A bastion on the rib 90 m along the route is bypassed as follows:
- Via a ledge on the left
- Through simple rock walls Further:
- Scree
- Exit onto route category 1B via a short rock wall
- Ascend the couloir to the ridge
Route Description: С гребню
Description of a challenging climbing route with ice and rock sections, featuring hazardous cornices and unstable rocks.
Brief description of the route by sections
Sections R0–R2. Snow and ice slope. Simultaneous movement. Insurance through ice screws. Crossing bergschrunds via snow bridges. Sections R2–R4. Rocky gully and a series of walls. Rocks are destroyed, iced over. The most difficult section on the route. Insurance:
- pitons
- nuts In the upper part of the gully, behind a jendarme, there's a control cairn. Alternating movement. Sections R4–R5. Rocky ridge, very sharp. Loose rocks, everything is snowy, overhanging cornices! Insurance via rock outcrops. Alternating-simultaneous movement.
Route Description: З склону С гребня
Ascent to the top of Kurmychi from the "Jantugan" alpine camp via the VTsSPS pass, along the glacier and snowy-ice slope with a height gain of 500 m and a steepness of up to 40°.
4. Proposed difficulty category 2B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 500 m,
average steepness 35°,
section lengths: I — 300 m, II — 250 m, III — 300 m, IV — — m, V — — m, VI — — m.
6. Pitons hammered in:
for belay, for creating I.T.O.:
— rock: 0
— ice: 34
— bolt: 0