Description of Aristov's route cat. diff. from the west
The most convenient approach to the start of the route is through the Mametova pass with a descent to the Byrdjiga glacier. Here, on the moraine, the initial bivouac is set up. The exit to the route is in the direction of the Aristov pass - a pronounced lowering between the Karlytau peak and the beginning of the ridge of the Aristov peak.
From the Aristov pass, a straightforward ridge with two gendarmes follows, which are bypassed on the right via not steep snow shelves. Then, one should approach the summit tower and exit to the saddle via a snow couloir.
Descent from the summit tower along the eastern wall on a rope (twice at 40 m):
- First - descent to an intermediate platform
- Second - to the foot of the tower
From here, a descent along the couloir with scree to the Byrdjiga glacier to the initial bivouac.
The ascent takes 8-9 hours.
Recommendations
- Number of participants - 4-6 people.
- Initial bivouac - on the Byrdjiga glacier near the moraine lake.
- Departure from the bivouac at 5:00.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people:
- main rope - 2×40 m
- expendable cordelette - 12 m
- rock pitons - 7-8 pcs
- hammers - 2 pcs
(1)
Cat. diff.
West
From the Mountain.kz website