Route Description
The approach to the start of the route is made via the Bogdanovich Glacier to the Komсомольский Pass. In the pass area, there is a starting bivouac. From it, the ascent begins along the northern ridge for 300 m towards the peak of Карлытау. At the very beginning, the ridge is gentle but icy; closer to the peak, the steepness increases to 35°. Here, one should descend to the ridge of the Aristov peak into a lowering referred to as the Aristov Pass.
From the Aristov Pass, there is a straightforward ridge with two gendarmes, which are bypassed on the right via not very steep snowy ledges. Then, one should approach the summit pinnacle and exit to a saddle via a snowy couloir.
The descent is made via the ascent route. The ascent takes 9–10 hours.
Recommendations
- Number of participants: 4–6 people.
- Starting bivouac: in the area of Komсомольский Pass.
- Departure from the bivouac at 5:00 AM.
- Equipment for a group of 4:
- main rope: 2×40 m
- expendable cordelette: 10 m
- rock pitons: 7–8 pcs.
- hammers: 2 pcs.
(1)
35 category of difficulty via the 3rd ridge from the Komсомольский Pass
From Mountain.kz website
