Route Description
From the Mynzhilki weather station, ascend to Alpingrad. The traverse begins with peak Amangeldy 1B from the West (see description of Amangeldy 1B from the West). After the summit, descend in the eastern direction towards Pionerisky Pass via the 2B category route.
From Pionerisky Pass, ascend to peak Pioner via the 1B category route. Then move south towards the summit of Uchitel (see description of the traverse Uchitel - Pioner 3A).
From the summit of Uchitel, descend east via the 2A category route to peak Uchitel until the Heroes of Panfilov Pass.
Ascend to peak Heroes of Panfilov via the 2B category route along the western ridge (see description). Descend towards Mametova Pass.
From Mametova Pass, follow the route to Manshuk Mametova via the northern ridge 3B category until the summit (see description). Descend via the 2A category route from the M. Mametova glacier. Then descend to Alpengrad.
Completed by a group led by T. Lebedev in 1999.
Recommendations
- Number of participants - 6-8 people.
- Initial bivouac - Alpengrad.
- Departure from bivouac at 6:00 AM.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people:
- main rope - 2×40 m
- rock pitons - 4 pcs.
- protection gear - 4 pcs.
- carabiners - 4 pcs.
- hammers - 2 pcs.
- The route is highly prone to rockfall!!! Helmets are mandatory.
(1)
4A category
traverse
From Mountain.kz website