Ascent Report

Peak Kupol (2954 m) via the North-Eastern plates of the Eastern shoulder. Route category 5A (proposed), first ascent. Route name: "Through friction to the stars". Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1. Team leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants: Ilyinsky V.A., Shcherban A.N. 2016

Ascent Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1.
2. Peak Kupol (2954 m), via NE plates of E shoulder.
3. Proposed - 5A - first ascent.
4. Route type: rock climbing.

Climbing Report on the First Ascent

Kupol Peak (2954 m)

Via the Central Counterfort of the North Face. Route category 5B (proposed), first ascent Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gorge, 6.1 Team leader: Klepikov A.A. Team member: Afanasyeva A.A. Trainer: Afanasyev 2007

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gorge, 6.1.
2. Kupol Peak (2954 m), Central counterfort of the North Face.
3. Proposed category 5B — first ascent.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Route height difference: 656 m

Photo 2. Third rope.

The leader on the section R11–R12, 5 m from the belay station. Passing the crack — chimney, difficult climbing, smoothed rocks, steepness 65°. The photo is taken from the belay station at R9.

Photo 3. Fourth rope.

The leader at point R15. Passed:

• a vertical wall
• then 20 m internal corner. The photo is taken from the belay station at R12.

Photo 4. Fifth rope.

Ascent Passport

Appr. No. 13 dated April 13, 2007 6B cat. diff. In one hike 6.1.67 1. Region — Eastern Sayan Mountains, Tunkin Goltsy mountain range, Berun-Khandagai valley, 6.1. 2. Peak — Dome 2955 m, via plumb lines on the North face of the East shoulder. 3. Proposed 6B cat. diff., first ascent. Route type — rock. 4. Elevation difference: total route — 664 m, wall section — 474 m; length: total route — 1051 m, wall section — 511 m; section lengths: VI cat. diff. — 326 m, V cat. diff. — 80 m; average steepness of the wall route section — 86°. 5. Pitons left: total — 39, incl. drilled — 32; used: chocks — 86/51, rock pitons — 59/40, drilled pitons — 57/49, incl. removable — 25/17; celestial pitons — 97/97, incl. under Ø 6 mm drill — 90/90; total TTP used — 230.

Passport

1. Class of first ascents.
2. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gorge, 6.1.
3. V. Kupol via the North face of the East shoulder, 2955 m.
4. Proposed 6A category of difficulty, first ascent. The nature of the route is rocky.
5. Height difference: total route – 554 m, wall part – 425 m; length: total route – 730 m, wall part – 461 m, overhanging part ("blade") – 141 m; length of sections: 6th category of difficulty – 207 m, 5th category of difficulty – 145 m; average steepness of the wall part of the route — 79°.
6. "Hooks" left: total – 13, including pitons – 8; used: chocks – 82/67, rock pitons – 96/56, ice screws – 4, pitons – 10/5, including removable – 2/1; total artificial aids used – 128.
7. Team's climbing hours – 49, days – 6 (1 – processing, 5 – route).
8. Overnights – 4 in hammocks.
9. Team leader: Afanasyev A.E. (MS); participant: Khandazhapov B.A. (CMS).

Russian Championship in Alpinism

High-Altitude Technical Class 2020

Report

on the ascent to Peak Kupol, 2954 m, via the V plecha wall, 6A category of complexity, Afanasiev's route, by the team from Krasnoyarsk, August 13, 2020.

I. Ascent Passport

2010 Russian Mountaineering Championship. First Ascent Category

The summit of Kupol (2954 m) via the center of the North face of the East shoulder. Route category 6B (approx.), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1 Irkutsk Region team

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1.
2. Summit Kupol (2954 m), via the center of the North face of the East shoulder.
3. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route height difference: 850 m Route length: 1218 m Main part height difference: 680 m

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, section 6.1.2
2. Pik Lyubvi 2121 m via waterfall ice on the right stream of the SW ridge
3. Proposed 2B category of difficulty in winter, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined. Elevation gain: 1111 m (GPS); Average slope of the entire route: 32°; Total route length: 2100 m; VI category of difficulty: 0 m; V category of difficulty: 0 m;

Ascent Certificate for Mt. Mamlyuk, 2410 m, via the Western slope, cat. 1B, diff. cat.

1. East Sayan, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy ridge, Serga cirque (Veter region), section 6.1.2. 2. Mt. Mamlyuk (2410) via the Western slope. 3. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent. 4. Route type: combined. 5. Height gain 350 m, length 860 m, average slope 20°. 6. Pitons used: rock and chocks — 7. 7. Team's walking time — 4 hours. 8. No bivouacs on the route. 9. Team: Afanas'eva A.A. CMS Geydarov K.G. 2nd sports class Karelov P.S. 3rd sports class Kuchumov S.N. novice Mordovin A.A. 3rd sports class Nomokonov D.V. 3rd sports class Potapov R.A. badge Rasskazov D.V. 3rd sports class Rozhin A.Yu. 2nd sports class Uvarovskiy S.V. novice Shabanov A.V. novice Afanas'ev A.E. MS

Description of the ascent route to Mt. Mamlyuk 2410 m via the Western ridge, cat. 1B diff. cat.

Geographical location, sporting characteristics of the Moygota gorge

The Moygota gorge is located in the middle part of the main watershed of the Tunkin Goltsy in the Eastern Sayan. The Moygota peak closes the Moygota gorge and is located in the main watershed ridge. The heights of the peaks in the Moygota gorge do not exceed 3000 m. The alpine relief of the area with jagged rocky ridges makes it possible to classify a number of interesting sporting routes in this gorge. There are already classified routes to:

• Moygota peak via the southern ridge – 3A;
• Flibustier peak – 3B and 1B;
• Per'ya peak – 2B. The passage of these routes is often complicated by a significant snow cover, which falls early in autumn and mostly melts only by the end of May or June. Approaching with a load to the base camp – on the edge of the forest, from the Tunkinskaya valley, from the road leading from the village of Tagarhay – takes just under two walking days.