South Siberian Mountains
Route Description: В стене
Description of the 4A category complexity route to Vostochny Zvezdny peak in the Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, with a detailed analysis of the sections and team tactics.
Passport
- Rock climbing route.
- Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
- Pik Vostochny Zvezdny, 2100 m. West wall.
- Proposed — 4A cat. dif., first ascent.
- Height difference: 250 m. length of sections with 4–5 cat. dif.: 50 m, average steepness of the route: 40°.
- Pitons hammered in: rock pitons: 4, chocks: 31.
- Total climbing hours: 15, days: 1.
Route Description: центру В стены
Description of a new 4A rock climbing route to Zvezdniy East peak in Ergaki ridge, Western Sayan, climbed in August 2012.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — rock climbing
- Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
- Pik Vostochny Zvezdny, 2190 m via the center of the Eastern wall
- Proposed category — 4A first ascent
5. Route Characteristics
- Height difference — 280 m
- Total length — 345 m
- Length of sections: 5th cat. diff. – 40 m, 4th cat. diff. – 100 m, 3rd cat. diff. – 175 m, 2nd cat. diff. – 50 m
- Average steepness of the entire route — 60°
Route Description: Ю ребру
### Description of a Category 5 Climbing Route to Zub Dragona Peak (2021 m) via the Northwest Wall in Ergaki Details on the technical aspects and approach to the route.
PASSPORT
- Climbing category: rock climbing.
- Climbing area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
- Peak: Zub Drakona (Dragon's Tooth), 2021 m, via the edge of the S wall.
- Proposed category: 5A, first ascent.
- Route characteristics: elevation gain: 400 m; route length: approximately 600 m; length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty: 200 m; average steepness: 56°;
Route Description: центру Ю стены Гл. башни
Description of the first ascent of a 6A category rock climbing route to Zub Dragona (2170 m) peak in Ergaki mountain range, Western Sayan.
Ascent Record
- Ascent category — rock climbing
- Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge
- Peak — Zub Drakona 2170 m via the center of the S wall of the main tower.
- Claimed — 6A first ascent
- Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m. total length — 600 m. length of 6th category sections — 220 m. 5th category sections — 150 m.
Route Description: ЮЗ стене Гл. Башни
Description of a 6A category complexity route to the top of Zub Dragona (2,170 m) in the Ergaki ridge, Western Sayan, climbed by Krasnoyarsk climbers in 1999.
Exit from the grotto, section #10-11, taken from overnight stay #2
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: Rock climbing.
- Ascent area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
- Peak, its height, ascent route: Zub Drakona, 2170 m, South-West wall of the main bastion
- Proposed category: 6A
- Route characteristics: Zub Drakona, 2170 m, South-West wall of the main bastion. Proposed category: 6A. Route characteristics:
Route Description: С гребню
Description of the Borus mountain range in the Western Sayan Mountains, its location, tourist significance, and mountaineering opportunities.
Карта-схема района
Схема хребов Западного Саяна
Duty officer of the Siberian Regional Rescue Team, Krasnoyarsk tel.: (3912) 28-90-01
The Sayan mountain system is located in southern Siberia, northeast of Altai, west of Lake Baikal. The Sayan mountains are divided into two separate mountain systems:
- Eastern Sayan
- Western Sayan The Borus mountain ridge is located in the south of the Krasnoyarsk Krai, on the border with the Republic of Khakassia. The nearest settlement is the urban-type settlement Cheremushki (300 m above sea level). The settlement of the hydroelectric power plant Sayano-Shushenskaya, which is located 2 km from the center. The approach from the settlement to the base camp takes 3-4 hours. The Borus ridge consists of five peaks. The highest point in the area is p. Borus, 2320 m above sea level. The old name of the peak is гора Пойлов (Poylov mountain), named after one of the pioneers of the region. Borus is the most visited area, a tourist center for:
- athletes,
Route Description: кф. В гребня
Description of the 2A category route to the peak Koshyurnikova via the spur of the eastern ridge, including the required equipment and history of the first ascent.
Peak Koshurnikova
Approximately category 2A complexity via the spur of the eastern ridge. 45 minutes from the base camp. The start of the route is a steep rock wall (75–80°). Difficult climbing, pitons, 30 m. Further, heavily snowed rock at 45–50°. (In the period from March to May, there is a lot of flow ice) Movement in rope teams, alternating, 200 m. Further, on the left side of a vaguely defined ridge, along destroyed rocks with simultaneous belay. Then along the wide eastern ridge to the summit. Descent along the eastern ridge. Time to complete the route is 3.5 hours. Required equipment for 6 people:
- Main rope 40 m — 3 lengths.
- Rock pitons — 4 pcs.
- Hammers — 2 pcs.
Route Description: центру СВ склона через Монкадо
First ascent of the route of 3A cat. on the peak Koschurnikov (2300 m) through "Moncado" in the center of the NE slope in the Western Sayan, Borus ridge.
Ascent Log
- Area – Western Sayan, Borus Ridge, p. 6.2
- Peak – Koschurnikova, 2300 m, via the Central North-Eastern slope through "Monkado"
- Category – 3A cat. diff. – first ascent
- Route Type – Rock climbing
- Route Description: elevation gain – 650 m, total route length – 1195 m, wall section length before reaching the counterfort – 365 m, section lengths:
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of the route to Peak Shurnikova via the Rzhany ridge, category 2A, including duration, necessary equipment, and terrain features.
KOSHURNKOVA PEAK. Via the southern ridge, category 2A, approximate
From the base camp 1.5 hours. The start of the route is a snow couloir with a slope of 45–50°. The snow is dry and loose. Under the snow is a large scree. Simultaneous movement in belay teams - 30 minutes. Ascent to a large gendarme from the invisible side (photo 1) with alternate belay (1 piton) - 20 minutes. Rocks of medium difficulty. There is a control cairn on the gendarme. Descent from the gendarme is simultaneous down easy rocks. Further (photo 2) along a simple ridge to the second gendarme: 5 m straight up, 1 piton. Descent from the gendarme is straightforward onto the ascent of a sharp ridge (40 m) - fixed rope. The steepness of the ascent is 30–35°. After the ascent, the slope becomes more gentle and descends to a subtle col. Movement is simultaneous. Then - ascent to the very summit. Rocks of medium difficulty with good protrusions for simultaneous belay. Steepness is 35°. From the control cairn to the summit is one and a half to two hours. Descent is along the wide eastern ridge. Time to complete the route is 3.5–4 hours. Necessary equipment for a group of 6 people:
Route Description: В гребню
Description of the first ascent of the 2300 m peak (Koshchurinkov Peak) in the Sayan Mountains via the eastern ridge, category 2B difficulty level.
Climbing passport.
- Climbing category — technical.
- Climbing area — Sayany.
- Summit, its height, ascent route — unnamed, 2300 m, South-Eastern ridge.
- Proposed difficulty category — 2B.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m, average steepness — 35°.
- Pitons driven for belay: rock — 5, ice — , bolt — .
- Number of travel hours — 5.