Ascent Passport

Appr. No. 13 dated April 13, 2007 6B cat. diff. In one hike 6.1.67

1. Region — Eastern Sayan Mountains, Tunkin Goltsy mountain range, Berun-Khandagai valley, 6.1. 2. Peak — Dome 2955 m, via plumb lines on the North face of the East shoulder. 3. Proposed 6B cat. diff., first ascent. Route type — rock. 4. Elevation difference: total route — 664 m, wall section — 474 m; length: total route — 1051 m, wall section — 511 m; section lengths: VI cat. diff. — 326 m, V cat. diff. — 80 m; average steepness of the wall route section — 86°. 5. Pitons left: total — 39, incl. drilled — 32; used: chocks — 86/51, rock pitons — 59/40, drilled pitons — 57/49, incl. removable — 25/17; celestial pitons — 97/97, incl. under Ø 6 mm drill — 90/90; total TTP used — 230. 6. Team's travel hours — 90, days — 16 (incl.: 1 — rest day, 8 — partial working day due to frosts). 7. Overnight stays — 15 on platforms. 8. Leader: Afanasyev A.E. (MS); Team members: Antonov E.V. (CMS); Moskovskikh S.V. (CMS); Muravyov O.Yu. (CMS). 9. Coach: Afanasyev A.E. 10. Route start — February 9, 2007, Summit — February 24, 2007 at 18:00, return to base camp — February 24, 2007 at 23:00. 11. Organization: Irkutsk Region Agency for Physical Culture and Sports.

Photo of wall profile from the left. Photopanorama of the North face of the Stol-Kupol massif.

M 1:10000 Route profile drawing on Dome peak 2955 m via plumb lines on the North face M 1:2000

Ascent Schedule

elevation	9.02.	10.02.	11.02.	12.02.	13.02.	14.02.	15.02.	16.02.	17.02.	18.02.	19.02.	20.02.	21.02.	22.02.	23.02.	24.02.
2900 m
2800 m															–30	–25
2700 m					wind						wind	–38	–31	–27
2600 m				snowfall	heavy			–33	–40	–43						blizzard
2500 m	–28	–26	–29	–27	–26	–31	–37
2400 m	6 h	7 h	8 h	3 h	4 h	6 h	7 h	5 h	8 h	0	3 h	5 h	5 h	5 h	5 h	13 h

UIAA Scheme Dome peak 2955 m via plumb lines on the North face of the East shoulder

pitons				sections	complexity, length, steepness
rock	chocks	drilled	celestial
59/40	86/51	57/49	97/97	summit
				R35	I–, 20 m, 5°
				R34	II+, 150 m, 35°
				R33	I–, 70 m, 20°
				R32	I–, 200 m
2	5			R31	V+, 15 m, 80°
1		1	2	R30	VI+, A1e, 4 m, 92°
1	3	1	5	R29	VI+, A1e, 13 m, 92°
	2			R28	III+, 10 m, 45°
	2			R27	III+, 15 m, 45°
	1			R26	V–, 7 m, 90°
1	5			R25	V–, 25 m, 45°
1	1			R24	V+, 5 m, 90°
1	4			R23	V+, A1, 7 m, 90°
7	9			R22	VI–, A2, 25 m, 95°
3	5			R21	IV+, 30 m, 60°
1	2	4	7	R20	VI+, A3e, 17 m, 90°
2				R19	V–, 2 m, 50°
1	3	9		R18	VI+, A3e, 17 m, 89°
1	3			R17	VI+, A1e, 5 m, 92°
1	5	11		R16	VI+, A3e, 25 m, 87°
		3	5	R15	VI+, A2e, 10 m, 95°
2	2			R14	V+, 9 m, 85°
2	4	4	5	R13	VI+, A3e, 15 m, 100°
		2	7	R12	VI+, A3e, 10 m, 95°
	1	2	6	R11	VI+, A1e, 10 m, 95°
4	5	3	7	R10	VI–, A2e, 20 m, 90°
		2	3	R9	VI–, A1e, 6 m, 85°
3	5	3	7	R8	VI+, A4e, 20 m, 90°
7	8	7	9	R7	VI–, A2e, 45 m, 90°
5	5	4	5	R6	VI+, A4e, 20 m, 92°
2		2	4	R5	VI–, A2e, 12 m, 89°
1	2			R4	V–, 10 m, 70°
7	12	5	3	R3	VI–, A3e, 55 m, 89°
1		2	2	R2	VI+, A1e, 7 m, 92°
3	2			R1	IV–, 40 m, 65°
				R0	I+, 100 m, 40°

Dome peak 2955 m via plumb lines on the North face of the East shoulder, 6B cat. diff. route.

Approach to the route start via large scree takes 2 h.

Sect. 0–1 I+, 100 m, 40°. Hard snow crust. Sect. 1–2 IV–, 40 m, 65°. The wall at the top of the snowy scree-filled couloir with overhanging walls on both sides. To the right is the start of the route to the "blade". Entry to a destroyed niche. 1–2 overnight stay on a platform. Sect. 2–3 VI+, A1e, 7 m, 92°. Exit from the niche to the left through overhangs. Sect. 3–4 VI–, A3e, 55 m, 89°. Destroyed crack with three one-sided cornices 0.5 m to the left. The right wall is overhanging. Sect. 4–5 V–, 10 m, 70°. Stepped fracture to the right. Exit to small ledges. Second overnight base. 3–6 overnight stays on a platform. Sect. 5–6 VI–, A2e, 12 m, 89°. Series of destroyed slabs to the left. Sect. 6–7 VI+, A4e, 20 m, 92°. Destroyed crack, through a "beak" into a chimney. Sect. 7–8 VI–, A2e, 45 m, 90°. Steep destroyed stepped chimney with a slope to the right ("minefield"). Exit to large blocks with a pile of live rocks. Third overnight base, 7–14 overnight stays on a platform. Control cairn. Sect. 8–9 VI+, A4e, 20 m, 90°. Oblique crack from left to right at an angle of 50° to the ledge (hanging inner corner above a cornice 0.7 m). Sect. 9–10 VI–, A1e, 6 m, 85°. Inner corner, left wall is overhanging. Approach to a vertical fracture. Sect. 10–11 VI–, A2e, 20 m, 90°. Destroyed crack. Sect. 11–12 VI+, A1e, 10 m, 95°. Overhanging destroyed crack is passed on the right along the wall on celestial pitons. Sect. 12–13 VI+, A3e, 10 m, 95°. Along the destroyed slit along the slab on celestial pitons. Sect. 13–14 VI+, A3e, 15 m, 100°. Up the overhang to the left, crossing the crack. Sect. 14–15 V+, 9 m, 85°. Up the destroyed crack. Above, the crack is overhanging and filled with live rocks. Sect. 15–16 VI+, A2e, 10 m, 95°. Transition slightly to the right of the slit through a cornice onto monolithic black "mirrors". Sect. 16–17 VI+, A3e, 25 m, 87°. First "mirror", up to the right. Drilled and celestial pitons. Sect. 17–18 VI+, 5 m, 92°. Overhanging step. Exit to a ledge. Sect. 18–19 VI+, A3e, 17 m, 89°. Second "mirror". Exit to an outer corner. Sect. 19–20 V–, 2 m, 50°. Smooth slab to the right. Transition through the outer edge. Sect. 20–21 VI+, A3e, 17 m, 90°. Gray slab on the right side. Exit to a ledge. Fourth platform base. 14–15 overnight stays. Sect. 21–22 IV+, 30 m, 60°. Relief rocks up to the right. Sect. 22–23 VI–, A2, 25 m, 95°. Inner corner with slits on the right wall. Sect. 23–24 V+, A1, 7 m, 90°. Two parallel cracks. Exit to a ledge. Above are destroyed overhangs: "negative scree". Sect. 24–25 V+, 5 m, 90°. Transition from the inner corner to the left onto a destroyed narrow ledge on a global flake. Sect. 25–26 V–, 25 m, 45°. Oblique narrow ledge with live rocks on a huge red flake to the left and above the overhanging walls. Rocks falling into the flake's fractures fly down to a great depth, making a booming sound. Sect. 26–27 V–, 7 m, 90°. Long narrow chimney. Sect. 27–28 III+, 15 m, 45°. Ledge to the left above the overhang. Sect. 28–29 III+, 10 m, 45°. Ledge to the right under the overhang. The overall steepness of the two sections is close to 85°. Sect. 29–30 VI+, A1e, 13 m, 92°. Slabs are smooth. Sect. 30–31 VI+, A1e, 4 m, 92°. One-sided cornice is passed to the right. Sect. 31–32 V+, 15 m, 80°. Inner corner along the left slab. Exit to the "beach". Sect. 32–33 I–, 200 m. Along the "beach". Sect. 33–34 I–, 70 m, 20°. Ridge. Sect. 34–35 II+, 150 m, 35°. Slope. Sect. 35–36 I–, 20 m, 5°. Ridge to the summit.

Summit Dome 2954 m. Descent to the east via a category 1 route.