Free Korea. North Face (first ascent). 1999 approx. 6A category. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range.

Passport

1. Winter category.
2. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
3. Peak Free Korea. North Face. 4740 m.
4. Route 6A category (approx.) first ascent.
5. Height difference of the route: 640 m (bergschrund 4100 – summit 4740). Route length 845 m.
6. Length of the central part 285 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category

• winter

2. Region

• Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.

3. Object

• Pik Svobodnaya Korea.

4. Category of difficulty

• 6B, ctm 7.4.144 (S. Semiletkin, 1988)

5. Height difference — 890 m, length — 1160 m.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Region — Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge, Ak-Sai gorge 3. Object — Peak Svobodnaya Korea 4. Category of difficulty — 6B, KTM 7.4.144 5. Height difference — 580 m, route length — 890 m, length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty — 480 m, average steepness of the route — 64°, steepness of the wall part of the route — 81.6° (4330–4580 m). 6. Pitons driven:

Rock	Nuts	Bolts	Ice
144/79	91/59	2/2	60/0

I. Technical Class

2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range
3. Pik Svobodnaya Korea, 4777 m, via North Face (Semiletkin's route)
4. Difficulty category 6B
5. Elevation gain 677 m, length 1060 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 67°, including 6B category difficulty at 85° (4320 m – 4570 m)
6. Pitons used: rock 142/74, bolted pitons 104/40, ice screws 44/2
7. Climbing hours 48, days 7 (including preparation)
8. Overnight stays: five nights in a tent on a platform
9. Team leader: Balyezin Valery Viktorovich, International Master of Sports Team members:

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, via the North wall.
4. 6B complexity category.

Indicator	Entire route	Wall	Most difficult part of the wall
Height difference

Svobodnaya Koreya via North Face

S. Semiletkin, 1988, cat. 6B Tian Shan — Kyrgyzsky Ridge 7.4.144.

Passport

1. Class: winter
2. Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge
3. Peak Svobodnaya Koreya, via North face, 4740 m. 4th ascent
4. Route cat. 6B (S. Semiletkin, 1988, 3rd passage)
5. Height difference: 890 m, length — 1160 m.

Passport

I. Category of technical ascents. 2. Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ak-Sai gorge. 3. Peak Svobodnoy Korei via the center of the North face of the East ridge. 4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, second ascent. 5. Elevation gain 580 m, length 890 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty is 480 m. Average slope of the route 64°, wall 81.6° (4330–4580). 6. Pitons driven:

Rock pitons	Bolt pitons	Nuts	Ice screws
178	5	86	48

Passport

1. Winter category.
2. Tian-Shan. Kyrgyzsky ridge. Ak-Sai gorge.
3. Peak Svobodnaia Korea, 4740 m, via the north wall.
4. 6A category difficulty (S. Semiletkin, 1988) 9th ascent.
5. Elevation gain 820 m, route length — 1125 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty is 390 m, 6th category — 310 m. Average steepness of the route is 60°.
6. Pitons used | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :------: |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge
3. Peak Svobodnaia Korea (4740 m) via the left part of the North face
4. Proposed category 6B (first ascent)
5. Height difference — 1040 m, length of the wall section — 920 m, including 5B — 506 m, 6B — 330 m, average steepness — 66°.
6. Pitons used: | rock | bolt | placed elem. | ice | | :--: | :--: | :----------: | :-: |

Class of Technical Ascensions

Report

on the first ascent in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too mountains (Western Tien-Shan) of the north wall of the "Free Korea" peak (4740 m), entered in the USSR Alpine Championship in the 1975 season Team of the Armed Forces of the USSR (SKA KSAVO) July 1975

I. Popenko Yu.S.	CMS	captain
2. Belovol E.V.	CMS	deputy captain
3. Afanasyev V.M.	CMS	participant
4. Kuramshin R.M.	CMS	participant