Video guide for the Barbera Route (5B, ice climbing) on Pik Svobodnoy Korei by Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide of the Balezin's right route (5B) on Peak Svobodnaya Koreya by Dima Pavlenko.

PASSPORT

1. Technical class.
2. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai gorge.
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea (4740 m) via the central ice couloir on the S wall.
4. Difficulty category — 5A (reference).
5. Height difference — 820 m, length — 1675 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 535 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 60°.
6. Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | chockstones | ice screws | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | | 20 / 0 | 0 / 0 | 5 / 0 | 60 / 0 |

PASS

I. Technical category 2. Kirghizskiy Ala-Too, Ak-Sai valley 3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea via the ice couloir on the North face, 4740 m 4. Proposed 5B cat. of diff. first ascent 5. Height difference 820 m, length 1580 m Length of sections with 5 cat. of diff. is 280 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 50° (4100–4600), no sections of 6 cat. of diff. 6. Pitons driven: rock 20, bolt hangers 11, ice 80 7. Team's total climbing time 24 hours, days 2

Report on the ascent of the Tomsk-Novosibirsk team to Peak Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m. Via the North wall couloir, 5B cat. sl., Barber's route, March 25, 2019.

1. Mountain system: Tian-Shan. Region: Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range. Valley: Ak-Sai. Name of the summit: p. Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m.
2. Name of the route: via the North wall couloir, №147.
3. Category of complexity: 5B.
4. Nature of the route: ice and snow.
5. Characteristics of the route: Height difference: 700 m. Route length: 900 m. Length of sections with V–VI cat. sl.: 600 m. Average steepness:

Report

Team of the Republic of Tatarstan on the ascent to Pik Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m via the northern wall couloir, 5B category of difficulty (G.Barber's route) on March 14, 2019. Team leader Coach Kazan 2019

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai valley, 7.4
2. Object of ascent — Pik Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m, via the northern wall couloir (G.Barber's route)
3. Category of difficulty — 5B
4. Route type — ice and snow

1. Svobodnaya Korea peak, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall (2nd ascent) cat. diff.
2. Team leader: Dashkevich S.A., Master of Sports
3. Central Tien Shan. Kyrgyz Range. Aksay gorge.
4. Section in Classification 7.4

REPORT

on the second ascent made by a team from the Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of Sverdlovsk Region (FAIS of Sverdlovsk Region) to Svobodnaya Korea peak, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall. 6Az cat. diff.

Addresses:

620092, Yekaterinburg, Novgorodtseva st., 9/3, apt. 17 Dashkevich Sergey Alexandrovich Phone: 89122436251

Russian Championship 2021

Ice and Snow Ascent Category

Report

Combined team of Nizhny Novgorod and Novosibirsk Pik Svobodnoy Korei 4777 m via north wall, Ruchkin's route 2001, 6A category, winter ascent

Climbing Passport

1. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, 7.4.
2. Peak — Svobodnaya Korea, 4777 m via North wall, A. Ruchkin 2001.
3. Category — 6A.

1. p. Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall (2nd ascent) cat. diff.
2. team leader: Sergey Dashkevich, Master of Sports
3. Central Tien Shan. Kyrgyzsky ridge. Aksay valley.
4. Section in classification 7.4

Report

on the second ascent of the team of the Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of the Sverdlovsk Region (FAiS Sverdlovsk Region) to p. Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall. 6A cat. diff.

Addresses:

620092, Ekaterinburg, Novgorodtseva st., 9/3, ap. 17, Sergey Dashkevich, Tel. 89122436251, Dash-sa@mail.ru, Ekaterinburg, 2010

Report on the ascent to p. Svobodnaya Korea

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range
2. Pik Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m, center of the North face (Yu. Popenko)
3. 6A category of difficulty
4. Route type — combined
5. Route characteristics: Height difference (bergschrund 4100 m – summit 4740 m) — 640 m. Route length to the ridge — 870 m. Route length to the summit — 1070 m. Section lengths:

• 6 category of difficulty — 160 m
• 5 category of difficulty — 460 m. Average steepness to the ridge — 65°. Average steepness of the main part of the route (to the "roof") — 75°.