Ascent Log

1. High-altitude technical category.
2. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range, Ak-Sai valley.
3. Svobodnaya Korea Peak. Right edge of the North face. 4740 m.
4. Route 5B category of difficulty (L. Myshlyaev, 1961). Approximately the fourth ascent of the route.
5. Height difference of the route: 640 m (bergshrund 4100 – summit 4740). Route length 845 m.
6. Length of the central part 270 m.
7. Length of sections with 6th category: 235 m.

The team's departure for the route was scheduled for July 29, 1985, between 3:00–4:00, on the same day as the teams from RSFSR and Ukrainian SSR. The choice of the route to Pik Svobodnaya Korea via the north face (Myshliaev's route) was made for the most objective comparison and visibility of the team's actions on the route relative to the two other teams following parallel routes (Bezzubkin, Popenko). Moreover, the choice of the route and simultaneous departure for the ascent ensured coordinated actions in case of the need for assistance, as the teams were within visibility and voice communication range. Due to the late dawn, the team departed from the "Koronskie" overnight camps at 4:00. No route processing was conducted. On the day of approach, visual observations were made of the planned ascent route. No rockfall was noted. At 5:00, the Avtomonov–Bershov team began crossing the bergschrund and subsequent movement along the ice slope (section R0–R2), installing fixed ropes. All participants traversed this section in crampons. The first climber used:

• ice axe
• ice screws
• screw and ice piton hooks.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — winter
2. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge
3. Object — Pik Svobodnaya Korea
4. Category of difficulty — 5B, KTM 148 (B.Bogaev, 74)
5. Height difference — 1124 m, length 1345 m, length of ice axe terrain sections 100 m, average steepness of the route 58° (bergschrund — ridge), average steepness of the wall 64° (3700–4580)
6. Pitons driven | rock | stoppers | ice | | :--: | :-----: | :-: | | 36 | 28 | 45 |

PASSPORT

1. Winter category.
2. Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Aла-Арча gorge.
3. Peak "Svobodnaya Koreya" 4740 m.
4. Route variations:

• Myshlyaev L. (right rib of N. side) via the right part of N. side.
• Bagaev B. (triangle of "N. side")

5. 6A category proposed for a winter group ascent.
6. Elevation gain — 640 m. Distance — 770 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (from bergschrund to ridge 61°).

Ascent Passport

1. Category — technical
2. Tian-Shan, Aksai gorge
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea via the right part of the northern wall
4. Claimed — 5B cat. diff., first ascent
5. Height difference 970 m, length — 1200 m, length of the wall section of the route — 1080 m, length of sections with 5 cat. diff. — 560 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 70°
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :---: | :--: | :-: | | 38/0 | 0/0 | 12/0 | 53/0 |

149

Category of Technically Challenging Ascent

Report

On the ascent of "Svobodnaya Koreya" peak via the right part of the north face, entered for the CS DSO "Trud" Alpine Championship in the 1974 season Team of the Krasnoyarsk Regional Council of DSO "Trud" July 1974 Team captain (B. Bagaev) KRAKNOYARSK — 1974

Report on the ascent of the Tomsk-Novosibirsk team to Peak Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m. Via the North wall couloir, 5B cat. sl., Barber's route, March 25, 2019.

1. Mountain system: Tian-Shan. Region: Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range. Valley: Ak-Sai. Name of the summit: p. Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m.
2. Name of the route: via the North wall couloir, №147.
3. Category of complexity: 5B.
4. Nature of the route: ice and snow.
5. Characteristics of the route: Height difference: 700 m. Route length: 900 m. Length of sections with V–VI cat. sl.: 600 m. Average steepness:

Report

Team of the Republic of Tatarstan on the ascent to Pik Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m via the northern wall couloir, 5B category of difficulty (G.Barber's route) on March 14, 2019. Team leader Coach Kazan 2019

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai valley, 7.4
2. Object of ascent — Pik Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m, via the northern wall couloir (G.Barber's route)
3. Category of difficulty — 5B
4. Route type — ice and snow

Russian Championship in mountaineering in the ice and snow class Report on the ascent of the St. Petersburg team to Peak Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m. Via the North Face couloir, 5B cat. sl. Barber's route on February 20, 2015.

Ascent Details

1. Mountain system: Tian Shan Region: Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range Valley: Ak-Sai Peak name: Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m
2. Route name: via the North Face couloir
3. Category of difficulty: 5B cat. sl.
4. Route type: ice and snow

Climbing Passport

1. Category — technical
2. Tian-Shan, Aksai gorge
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea via the right part of the northern wall
4. Assumed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Height difference 970 m, length — 1200 m, length of the wall part of the route — 1080 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 560 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 70°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 38, bolt — 0, chocks — 12/0, ice screws — 53/0
7. Climbing days (not including descent) — 1, hours — 17
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — one, on descent, on a gentle scree ridge
9. Leader — Artamonov Alexey Vladimirovich — Candidate Master of Sports