PASSPORT

I. High-altitude category 2. Himalayas 3. Mount Everest, 8848 m, NNE wall. 4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 2328 m, wall section 1780 m;

• length 3738 m, wall section 2238 m; length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 1790 m; average steepness of the main part of the route 52°.

6. Pitons hammered in: | Rock | Nuts | Ice and snow |

Ascent Log

1. Mountain range: Karakoram Gorge: Nangma. Peak name: Shingu Charpa (This peak is not listed in the 2001 classification table).
2. Route name: "Never More" via the Central Eastern wall
3. Estimated difficulty category: 6B first ascent
4. Route type: combined
5. Route characteristics: Height difference: 1600 m Route length: 2360 m

11.3.5

Report

On the ascent (traverse) of Kashkar Peak (Koshkar, Kochkarbashi) 6435 m

via the northern ridge (ascent)–eastern ridge (descent) 4B–5A category of difficulty.

(First ascent)

China, Tian Shan, in the southern spur of Pobeda (Tomur) Peak, Kokshaal-Tau ridge, dividing the Temirsu (to the west) and Chonteren (to the east) glaciers. On the traverse, the following points (peaks, gendarmes) were passed:

• 5550 m
• 5620 m
• 5650 m

freerider's domeik

Route to Merdven-Kayas 1B cat. dif.

The lower part of the "Assa" route goes along the left edge of an oblique ledge - a couloir, to the right of the "Bezzavetny" route, connecting with it in some places. In its middle part, it connects with the "Zлая" route (approximately two ropes). Approach: from the camp of the Mountain School "Category of Difficulty", go towards the "Khergiani" rock and further beyond it to the entrance to the couloir. The approach takes 5 minutes. "Assa" route on Merdven-Kayas 1B cat. dif. "Assa" route on Merdven-Kayas 1B cat. dif. Technical description of the route:

• R0–R1
• 50 m

Foros kant. Telezhenko, 2B cat. sl. A strong key rope requires the leader's ability to climb and belay on rocks not less than F 5 c–6 a. This means that if there isn't one, then it's better not to go. To fail to climb and abandon the route is one thing. To fall off and ... is another.

XXXIV USSR Climbing Championship Ice and Snow Climbing Category

REPORT

on the ascent of Mt. Mizhirgi East 4918 m via the center of the North face (route by V. Grishchenko, 1982), category 5B, third ascent by the Ukrainian SSR team Team Captain /M. M. Gorbenko/ Senior Coach /V. S. Sviridenko/ Tactical Actions of the Team. I. Deviations from the Tactical Plan and Reasons for Deviations:

• On the first day, there were no deviations from the tactical plan;
• On the second day, there was a later arrival at the pre-summit ridge, reason: complex snow conditions in the upper part of the route;

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge.
3. Peak Shkhara Gl., 5068 m, via the N wall of the 3rd ridge (“the bottle”), first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 6.
5. Height difference — 1500 m.
   • wall — 1450 m
   • length — 3880 m
   • including wall length — 3130 m
     • of which 5–6 cat. diff. — 920 m

Ascent Passport

1. Class — technical
2. Central Caucasus, Bezengi region 2.5
3. Western Shkhara (5057 m) via the north face of the eastern ridge spur, second ascent of the route
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6
5. Height difference — 1157 m (3900–5057), wall length — 1730 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 660 m (3975–4570, 4780–4890), average steepness of main sections — 64–67°, of which 6th category — 320 m (4280–4570, 4780–4890), 77–79°